Chile's Travel

Earthquake in Valparaiso, Chile

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 01:56:00 +0000

Just hours after a major earthquake jolted the region of Maule, Chile, another offshore quake measuring over 6.0 hit offshore Valparaiso, Chile, near where I live.

For an earthquake of such magnitude, a surprisingly small number of people died. Still, the death toll is rising. Currently 214 are reported dead after the devastation.

I've been too busy taking care of things to go into detail. Power has been restored, and I wanted to let you know that I'm fine, but it was extremely scary.

Best Luggage Options for Your Trip

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Wed, 14 Jan 2009 15:57:00 +0000

White sandy beaches, ancient Indian ruins, colonial architecture, and hospitable locals - all of these come to mind when envisioning the dream vacation to Chile. When it comes to travel specifics, however, one may have a hard time getting into the swing of things.

Beware.

Luggage can make or break your vacation to Chile, or anywhere for that matter. I know this from personal experience. I've traveled far and wide through this incredibly long country, and I can't tell you how important it is to have well made travel accessories, even if you're a relatively low-maintenance chick like me.

Roughing it, you don't necessarily need designer luggage. Standard backpacking gear could suffice. Personally, though, I really, really enjoy brands like Hartman luggage and Vera Bradley luggage, and find that they wear amazingly well in all kinds of climates, ranging from the parched dessert in the North to the icy fjords in the South.

Those are just the two brands I happened to travel with when I first moved down here almost two years ago. If anybody else has tips on the best type of luggage to buy, and use while traveling in Chile or other parts of the world, let me know. But I think my experience is pretty telling, because the diverse climatology of Chile makes a good staging ground for just about anywhere else in the world. Still, lemme know your experience: not just what you pack when you travel to Chile, but what you pack it in!

Europe Travel: Madrid, Amsterdam, Florence & Lisbon

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Mon, 27 Oct 2008 20:59:00 +0000

One thing I've noticed about Chile is that the locals here are crazy about traveling to Europe. There is a certain amount of prestige involved, because Europe for many Chileans is the Old Country where their ancestors came from. Apart from Spain, there are many people of German, British and Italian descent

Also, Europe is just a fantastic place to travel in general.

So it makes sense that many of the more well-to-do Chileans would have traveled to Europe, and anyone traveling to Chile might do well to have traveled in Europe also, because then you can talk about Europe to the locals you meet.

For the Chileans who read this blog to practice their English, I've put together some travel recommendations for Europe. First, Spain. More specifically, Madrid. The capital is the biggest city in the country, and therefore is a pinnacle of culture and history. From El Prado to Reina Sofia, Madrid has the country's finest art museums, and the nightlife in Madrid is second-to-none. Where to hang your head? Hotels Madrid Norte. After Spain, a quick trip north will take you to one of Europe's wildest cities, Amsterdam. You can book Amsterdam hotels pretty cheaply at that site I found, and be free of the hassle of finding accommodations, so you can enjoy the fruits of the city. Of course, for a more traditional destination, you'll enjoy several Romantic hotels in Florence, which are easy to find and even easier to book. A veritable epicenter of the renaissance, Florence is chock full of culture and delight. Off the beaten track but well worth the trip is Lisbon, Portugal, a seafaring capital whose splendid architecture and quirky, yet charming local customs will give you a palatable taste of the exotic. Lisbon hotels are incredibly easy to find, and I really like that site's booking engine, it makes life sooo easy.

I hope these European hotel booking resources are helpful! Now you too can experience the European travel destinations that Chileans love.

Rare Blooming Wildflowers in the Atacama Desert

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Thu, 16 Oct 2008 23:11:00 +0000

Spring is here and it's been hard to stay indoors. I've been overwhelmed by what seem to be the constant miracles that Chile unveils to me. But, this also means that despite my promise to write more about travel in Chile, I've been doing more traveling than writing :-)

I will try to redeem myself. So I would like to share with you my sense of the beauty of Chile in the following essay that I wrote by hand on the bus back to Santiago from the Atacama Desert:

This rare event is difficult to describe with mere words. It evokes a feeling of peace and pure contentment in the visitor with its subtle but expansive beauty. What for years on end is only sand and small rocks with occasional cacti, is suddenly transformed into a carpet of green with splashes of color.

Because the event occurs so rarely, scientific knowledge of the numerous species of flowers, many of which remain dormant and hidden in the sandy soil, is extremely limited. One thing is certain however, the beauty of experiencing a rugged land transformed into a lush paradise is, quite literally, mindblowing.

This phenomenon in the driest desert in the world (the Atacama Desert) is impossible to predict because it depends upon an excessive amount of rainfall in a short period of time. This occurred in 1983, 1987, and 1991. However, the storm of July 12 of this year brought more rain than has ever before been recorded in the desert: 98mm in 16 hours. Therefore, this year's flowering is expected to be the most majestic in history.

The majesty began in July, with a light covering of greenery painting the normally sandy gray landscape with color. Then, as August turned into September, bulbs burst forth into flowers and splashed the entire region with tiny explosions of reds, violets, yellows and blues. Along with the flowers came a multitude of insects that feed on them, destined to live their short lives in the wonderland of crisp air heavy with sweet smells. Over the 4 months of desert glory, over a hundred different species will do their part in creating a uniquely beautiful, though short-lived ecosystem.

The colorful carpet of vegetation covers hundreds of kilometers of the Atacama Desert. From Vallenar to Copiapo and points north, the desert is aglow with color. If it is within your power, get yourself to the north of Chile and feed your soul on the beauty of this unique event. If not, enjoy the photos on this page and marvel at the inexplicable beauty that this world of ours continually offers us.

Northern Chile, Copiapo, Llanos de Challe National Park

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Sun, 03 Aug 2008 04:35:00 +0000

...I'm back! So much has happened lately that I haven't had any time for the blog, but I promise I'll be posting all my accumulated Chile travel advice and responding to your comments.

But in the meantime, and despite being so, so busy, I managed to put this together, another descriptive essay about my time in northern Chile's Atacama Desert. Enjoy!

All signs point to an extravagant display of northern Chile's unique flowering desert phenomenon this year, thanks to higher than average winter rainfall in the extremely dry Atacama Desert. Travelers to Chile's Region III and IV between now and mid-October will get to experience the peace and silence of a carpet of green, flecked with multi-colored flowers spreading away to the normally sandy, rocky horizon.

The phenomenon, which in the previous two decades has been seen in 1983, '87, '91 and '97, takes place when usually dormant flower bulbs, seeds and roots are soaked over a sufficiently long period of time with enough water to stir them from slumber.

"The important thing is that it rained this year in such a well spaced manner," said Roberto Alegria, a teacher and guide, "so the bulbs were better able to absorb the water. Now most are emerging, and there are incredible colors on the hills."

The colorful carpet of vegetation covers hundred of kilometers of the area known in Chile as Norte Chico, an area of transition from the rainier Mediterranean climate further south to the super dry Atacama Desert north of Copiapo in Region II. Norte Chico received some 80-mm of rain this season, versus average rainfall of 20 mm in Copiapo, 133 mm in La Serena and 400 mm in Valparaiso, which is on the coast roughly in line with Santiago, 775 km south of Copiapo. This area generally boasts cactus, low bushes and some flower and herb growth in the spring.

The flowering desert spreads along the Pacific Ocean, where the modest coast range reaches 1,214 m (4,000 feet) at Infiernillo (Little Hell) Hill near Vallenar. It starts around Caldera and Bahia Inglesa (English Bay) near the Region III capital of Copiapo and goes south through Vallenar all the way to sub-desert La Serena and Elqui Valley area.

One of the best areas to see it is to take a circle drive west from Vallenar to the coast at Huasco and then north to Carrizal Bajo. From Vallenar take Rt. C-46 west down the Huasco River Valley, where about halfway, or at km 28, olive tree orchards will accompany you to the sea. Huasco, with a population of about 6,000, is a fishing port and beach resort that, while it has been a port since colonial times, was largely destroyed in a 1922 earthquake. It is reachable by bus and has modest lodgings and seafood restaurants.

From Huasco take the paved and then sand road north to the tiny fishing town of Carrizal Bajo, whose nearby beaches are excellent for summertime camping. This was the most important mining port in the area in the 19th century. The area's highlight is the relatively new (since 1994) Llanos de Challe National Park. This as yet undeveloped park, which has a coastal section just south of Carrizal and an inland section southeast of town, and is a refuge for the glorious and nearly extinct "Garra de Leon" flower, a member of the alstroemeria family.

Head east from here back to the Pan-American Highway and Vallenar, a town of 45,000 inhabitants founded in 178 by Spanish governor Ambrosio O'Higgins midway between the ocean and the Andes mountain range. The town hosts a small Huasco (traditional, rural cowboy) museum open all year. The best restaurant in town is thought to be the Hostal de Vallenar, just seven blocks from the plaza at Alonso de Ercilla 848, phone 52-614538, also a three-star hotel.

Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, Peru

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Fri, 02 May 2008 03:32:00 +0000

I just spent a lot of time traveling back up in Northern Chile, and in Peru, and I'm finally back in Santiago with some time to write about it all.

Let's start with the most epic part of my journey. Despite National Geographic coverage of its mystical sights and Discovery’s reports on its adventurous pathways — calling it one of the Wonders of the World — Machu Picchu remains impossible to describe. No photo or explanation can possibly give justice to this wonder like your own eyes can. You have to go there. The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is simply something that you must not miss.

Your schedule, optional guides, food, entertainment and tickets can all be planned ahead of time, affording you a relatively worry-free adventure. I made my own arrangements, but if you want to go with a group I found STA Travel offers Machu Picchu and jungle adventure packages, plus a million other tour groups. Council Travel actually offers some pretty great discounts US to Peru, or Chile to Peru, especially for students. I might have actually saved money going with them, but I'm glad I went on my own because I had more independence to go where I wanted to, when I wanted to.

I recommended taking a cheap flight to Lima, Peru - as cheap as you can get. Lima is Peru’s capital and largest city. From Lima you can fly or bus it directly to Cuzco, a compact and enchanting city built on top of the Inca capital and holy city at nearly 11,000 feet high. There are tons of options for cheap overnights in Cuzco. We stayed at Carlos V, an accommodating place where under thick wool blankets you’ll be able to enjoy a satisfying night’s sleep before your four-day walk on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.

Set up a meeting with your guide for the evening before the hike to go over a trail map and iron out last minute details.

The adventure begins at 6 a.m., the latest you’ll ever get up for the next four mornings. Have breakfast and depart, leaving excess clothing, toiletries and anything else that will weigh you down on the hike. You can trust the innkeepers at your hotel — they’ll give you a number or a key to pick up your things upon your return. You will soon learn to appreciate fewer pounds weighing down on your back.

After a three-hour ride northeast of Cuzco, the packed bus drops you off at a river crossing where in March the bridge was temporarily out of order. Another bus awaits you, and the guides and the others in your group prepare for the start of the journey into the mountains of Peru.

Observe the brightly colored flowers and smells the fresh mountain air that immediately hit your senses. The sky is crystal clear as you hike the trail, and the Cusichaca — and later the Urubamba — River sings to you from below.

You’re surrounded by sun shining from every angle. With luck you’ll have the same experience as long as you don’t make the trek in the rainy season — May to September is the recommended time to visit this magical land, but I went at the end of March and had great weather.

Be sure to prepare for the cold no matter what season you’re in. The mountains are always chilly, especially when the sun goes down, and Machu Picchu is at 7,900 feet. Rain is likely, so a good pair of waterproof, broken-in boots as well as all-weather socks are smart investments. Bring clothing made of materials such as Gortex and mesh that will keep you warm even when wet and will dry quickly. A poncho is a must to protect your pack from the intemperate weather, as well as a lightweight rain jacket.

Sunscreen as well as trash bags are also useful, for trash, wet clothes, dirty boots and for everything you don’t think of. Bring chocolate, M&M’s and snacks like granola bars for energy revival on the hike.

It’s optional to hire a guide for your hike on the Inca Trail, especially for you experienced hikers. However, I highly recommend you hire one regardless. I passed many hikers who later asked me questions about the ruins and the history, things they had missed out on. Employ a guide: they have fascinating information and a native’s insight into this mysterious gateway to the ancient city of Machu Picchu. They are experienced, and who knows, you may be able to pick up some words about the Pachamama (motherland) in the Quechua language.

You don't have to be in the best shape to hike the Inca Trail, but I guarantee that you will be when you return. Most importantly, you have to be determined mentally to hike this three to four day, 31-mile hike. At the end of your journey, you will not be disappointed! The reward is one that will last forever. The feeling of accomplishment in seeing the same sight as Hiram Bingham, the American who rediscovered Machu Picchu in 1911, will be recorded in your memory forever.

Banos Morales, Cajon del Maipo near Santiago de Chile

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Sun, 09 Dec 2007 20:52:00 +0000

The guidebooks don't do it justice. Lonely Planet, Let’s Go - they all do a poor job of, well, guiding you to and from the town of Cajon del Maipo, which is just outside Santiago de Chile. So unless you have specific directions, arriving there can be an adventure.

Unless, of course, you let me guide the way:

Getting from Santiago to Banos Morales in Cajon del Maipo
Truth be told, there aren't many options. But making lemonade out of this lemon, I'll point out that the journey is very straightforward. The only public transportation that goes all the way to the town is a bus leaving every morning at 7:00am from Estacion Central. If you miss the bus, don't worry - you can take a number of other buses that head toward Cajon del Maipo and stop at Banos Morales, then continue in a shared taxi, also known as a colectivo. The price of the bus is about five dollars, which you pay for on the bus, and the ride takes about three hours. Do note that part of the trip can be windy and bumpy, but that just adds to the excitement.

Even more exciting, of course, is that bus is not in the best condition, and, even if you tired in the morning, its stiff, upright seats defy even the soundest sleepers. But that's the worst of it. I'd still say Cajon del Maipo's sweet location just above Santiago makes it an absolutely ideal destination for a weekend getaway.

So once you get into the general region of Cajon del Maipo, you'll encounter the small pueblo of Banos Morales. The town itself is little more than a collection of ramshackle cabins and camping areas, but there are enough facilities to accommodate people who just want to go on a day hike, as well as hard-core mountaineers looking for adventure travel in the Andes. You can find hand drawn maps at local hostels and cheap places to stay in Banos Morales, such as the Refugio El Volcan, which is located just outside of town.

At this point I've done a lot of hiking in Chile, and I've found it mostly to be an incredibly beautiful experience, everywhere I go. That said, the hiking spots just outside of Banos Morales are really exceptional - if you're in to hiking, you've just found your jackpot. Banos Morales is one of best places to hike, explore and get a close up and personal with the glaciers of the Andes - and again, it's all just a stone's throw away from the big, capital city of Santiago.

By far most easy-access place for hiking near Banos Morales is the Monumento Natural El Morado Natural Park. This park features a breathtaking slice of the canyon that takes you to the spectacular San Francisco Glacier - to get there you get to pass the stunning Laguna El Morado. The hiking trail is moderately difficult and quite steep at parts - fortunately, the bulk of the trail is only slightly inclined.

Indeed, once you get up the steepest part of the trail and get away from the town, you feel totally free from the trappings of urban life and Santiago smog. While trudging along the trail, don’t forget to look around at the beautiful grasslands, the plentiful wild flowers and the lazy river trickling by. The real treat is when you reach the end of the trail and the cool breeze coming off the mountains and the breathtaking view beckon you to sit and absorb the surroundings. To reach the San Francisco glacier will take about 2.5 hours (four hours roundtrip) and is approximately eight kilometers. If this kind of beauty doesn't make you peak, then you'll need to go for more extreme adventure, which is readily available in Cajon del Maipo. Ask around about difficult hikes in the area, as well as rock climbing and mountaineering.

Not a big hiker? Don't worry. Horseback riding is, I mean, HUGE in Chile, and Cajon del Maipo is no exception. Anyone who enjoys horseback riding can easily negotiate a price with any of the guys hanging out in the area right where the bus drops you off in town (Banos Morales, that is).

So, you've enjoyed your day hiking in Cajon del Maipo. You're slightly tanned and somewhat thirsty and, mostly, you wanna fall into your bed and clonk out. Not so fast! If you're not staying overnight, and you've just made a daytrip out of it, then you still need to get back down into town!

Transportation from Cajon del Maipo to Santiago, Chile
Don't be late, or else you're stuck for the night. There is only one daily bus back to town, which leaves at 6:00 p.m.

So enjoy the beauty of the Andes, as well as the reduced crowds of the fall around scenic Banos Morales this weekend.

Here is some more important info that you should know about:

Pay a small fee for entrance to the park. Camping is available in or outside the park along with rustic lodges. Food is limited in the town, and there aren’t any services in the park except one toilet, so bringing food is the best option. Remember to bring plenty of water and sunscreen because the sun is much stronger than in the city, and the altitude will dehydrate you quicker than you would expect.

Aconcagua, Chile Mountain Climbing

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Thu, 06 Dec 2007 17:47:00 +0000

Although the summit is located in Argentina many mountaineers set off from Santiago, therefore justifying its inclusion in this site. This majestic mountain has won the highest mountain competition between many South American countries; Chile, Bolivia and Argentina have all claimed to have the highest mountain, and maps in these countries actually back up their claims. Aconcagua, at 6980 meters (22,800ft), sits just north of the international highway between Santiago and Mendoza, Argentina, and its snowy peak is visible from the road.

The highest mountain in the western hemisphere, Aconcagua has a relatively easy "Normal Route" that has been climbed by many novice climbers. It also has many extremely technical routes up its daunting south face that challenges the most experienced mountaineers in the world. Many international trekking companies offer packaged tours with guides, though the mountain is easily attempted by climbers with experience and a little research. Ascents are normally done in 15-25 days, with many rest days for acclimatization. Although it is possible to climb quicker if one is in excellent shape; I climbed it in 11 days via the Polish Glacier Route after preparing on several high Chilean peaks. It is truly an expedition climb, with a long access (2 days hiking for the Normal Route and 3 days and 55 kms for the Polish Glacier Route simply to arrive at base camp). One can expect to see Andean condors riding the air currents overhead and wild guanacos (a relative of the llama) grazing on the steep slopes all valleys on the approach.

Although Aconcagua has a reputation as an easy mountain, it is still an extremely tall mountain (only Asia has higher peaks) and poses all of the dangers of high altitude mountaineering: altitude sickness, dangerous weather, extreme cold (it was -20 degrees C inside our tent at high camp!), distant medical services and very limited rescue options. Do not take any mountain over 5000 meters (16,500ft) lightly, especially not one that nearly reaches 7000 meters (23,000ft)!!!

Do not attempt this mountain if you are not in good physical condition- doctors at thr Plaza de Mulas base camp (Normal Route) have begun questioning perspective climbers and refusing permission to climb for those unprepared.

Climbing permits are required and can be obtained in Mendoza, Argentina, see prices here. Mules can be hired to carry equipment to base camp (highly recommended) on the Normal Route and, for a higher price, going to the the Polish Glacier. It may be possible to get better prices if you talk directly to the mule drivers and not go through their bosses who take a large cut of the money. However, this runs the risk of losing some equipment to untrustworthy multeers.

Valle de Elqui

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Sun, 02 Dec 2007 17:43:00 +0000

The pink bus screeched to a halt. An elderly, roly-poly woman waddled down the stairs, beamed a huge smile, took my hands in hers, blessed me and offered to take us to La Serena for 1,000 pesos. As we heaved our rucksacks into the bus I noticed its name in discreet lettering by the door: "El Misionero" ("The Missionary"). Sitting in the driver's seat was a man I assumed to be the woman's husband, accompanied by their daughter.

It was lunchtime, and as soon as we had settled down, the woman took the lid off a huge casserole dish wedged onto the front seat and ladled out enormous helpings of the typical Chilean dish of stewed black beans (called porotos).

Over lunch, she explained that the family were evangelists. They were traveling to spend some time with relatives just outside La Serena, and were charging a small fee to any hitchhikers tired of waiting by the roadside and being frazzled by the sun. Only business wasn't great - we remained the only two passengers on the dilapidated bus throughout the three-hour journey from Vallenar.

Time was of the essence, so Papa didn't stop to eat his beans. He just went on driving at the same steady speed while his daughter tucked a napkin into his collar, balanced a full bowl on the steering wheel and placed a spoon in his hand. We watched him, mesmerized, as he spooned up the mouthfuls, never once taking his eyes from the road. The girl hovered around adding extra salt and pouring him Coca-Cola whenever he grunted a request.

Meanwhile, Momma had disappeared into the back of the bus to wash the other plates. No one realized she was locked in the tiny toilet until half an hour later when the daughter remembered her existence and jumped up screaming "Mama!" The key had fallen out of the door, so we all got down on our hands and knees, and scrabbled about for it on the spotlessly clean floor. All except Papa, that is, who simply plodded on along the seemingly endless road to La Serena.

This is where the desert starts. Although dry and parched in comparison to the Central Region of Chile, sudden patches of pink, violet and yellow flowers refreshed my eyes which, after a couple of days around Bahia Inglesa further up north, felt as if they had been burnt dry by the sun's reflection off the white sand and aqua-blue water.

You'll find larger expanses of flowers by turning off the main road down any of the dirt tracks, which eventually lead to random, remote hamlets. It's definitely worth venturing off because many of the delicate flowers don't bloom by the side of the main road, where the high fume levels from the continuous traffic discourage their growth. One of the most beautiful flowers is called the "the virgin's tears," and, suitably, its lilac head droops sadly downwards.

Dropping down into La Serena, the clouds of mist coming in off the sea were a welcoming, cooling sight. They are obviously a regular feature of the port town, as the locals told us, "Oh, it's always cloudy here."

In town, beyond the parade of trendy, modern clothes shops, there is a large hall full of little stalls dedicated to the more traditional handicrafts of the region, including dried fruit, woven baskets and soft, hand-knitted jumpers. After stocking up on dried papaya, apples and figs, and buying huge mushroom-shaped straw hats to keep the sun off, we got on the road to the renowned Valle de Elqui.

Famed for UFOs, hippie communes, spiritual groups, pisco and one of Chile's most famous poets, Gabriela Mistral, the valley is about an hour and a half by car from La Serena. Weeping willows and greenness follow the course of the river and barren, steep hillsides shoot up away from it, eventually leading to snow-capped peaks in the distance.

For those wanting to renew their visa, and avoid the Mendoza-run, the Argentinean border is a three-day horse trek away from Elqui's village of Monte Grande. This is the last biggish village in the valley and is where Mistral was a school teacher. There is a small museum dedicated to the Nobel Prize-winning poet and an imposing statue of her in its plaza. Her grave is a short walk up the hill away from the center of town.

Up until five years ago it was possible to camp anywhere along the valley, but unfortunately the rubbish left by inconsiderate campers means the entire valley has now been closed off, and it's difficult to free camp anywhere. Instead there are campsites and cabanas of varying degrees of luxury, and an ecological vibe which is only taken seriously by some property owners. Eco-friendly cabins run on solar energy and have sewage cleaning systems, whilst others simply let sewage run into the ground, from where it presumably runs into the river.

Not a pleasant thought for either the environment or for the bathers who dare the icy waters of the river to complete the valley's ritual blood-cleansing exercise. This involves jumping into the rocky stream seven times and in-between each session letting the sun dry you until you feel hot, before jumping back in again. The recommendation from one valley dweller who convinced me he lives by the ritual is not to include your head - the water is so cold that the temperature change merely gives you a headache rather than achieving any beneficial effects. Personally, I wouldn't know - I chickened out and simply bathed in the sun.

Hacienda los Lingues

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Thu, 29 Nov 2007 01:11:00 +0000

Hacienda Los Lingues is for connoisseurs — of resorts, food, history, horses and antiques. Just about everything in this charming getaway has a pedigree, from the gracious hosts to the and itself, but you won’t find a bit of pretension here.
When our bus full of Americans pulled into the shaded courtyard, owners Maria Elena Lyon de Claro and German Claro strode down the 18th century verandah to greet us.

The handsome couple entertained us on a wisteria-draped patio with pisco sours, crispy cheese empanadas and anecdotes about life in the country, as we unwound from the two-hour bus ride.

Then Maria Elena led us on a detailed tour of the home that was built on land granted to her husband’s ancestors by the king of Span in 1588. History seeps from every corner. Guests might sleep in the room where Jose Gregorio de Argomedo, a member of Chile’s first government, was born; take afternoon tea in the living room of family portraits that just as easily could hang in a museum; and dine off Limoges china, surrounded by the coats of arms of a line of Chilean aristocracy.

The furnishings tell a story of Chilean settlement: Diaguita pottery, colonial benches, doors carved by early Jesuits, pre-revolutionary French Baccarat chandeliers, German china, 17th century Chilean silver, Brazilian sofas. In perfect English, Maria Elena regaled us with tales of stolen portraits, presidential gift exchanges and the trials of living in a 300-year-old adobe house. (She had to have crooked doors custom made to fit the doorways.)

A chapel converted from a dairy barn in the late 1700s houses a beautiful ivory crucifix and a primitive Peruvian painting of the Virgin Mary. The thick adobe walls and simple wood pews provide a peaceful place for prayer. The resort also hosts weddings, Maria Elena told us.

The house is set in lush gardens shaded by pine and eucalyptus trees. Lunch is either served al fresco in the gardens or in the wine cellar. Because it was a cool day, we dined indoors, cozy inside stone walls covered by drying flowers, garlic and onions. The meal was typically Chilean, with an international flair. We began with an avocado mousse, followed by steaming humitas.

The entree was a flavorful filet accompanied by crisp-tender carrots. For dessert, we enjoyed a selection of ice creams and fruit. The wine flowed freely, and we all made some new friends.

After lunch, we were treated to an exhibition of the Aculeo horses the Claro family raises. In keeping with the historical theme, the horses are pure descendants of the conquistadors’ mounts — a stocky, even-tempered breed.

A huaso dressed in the traditional poncho and scary-looking spurs put a young thoroughbred through its paces, to the delight of the visitors. Maria Elena’s daughter assured us the spurs are never used to poke the horses, but that it’s the jingly sound that motivates them.

Guests can ride the horses over the 10,000-acre estate, exploring farmland and Andean foothills. Overnight guests are encouraged to make themselves at home in the Claro home.

No doors are locked and no one has to sign any bills, until checkout time. It’s the honor system here, and "if you don’t believe in our bill, you don’t pay," says Maria \par Elena. Los Lingues is just one of five Relais & Chateaux members in South America. The hacienda can be reached in Santiago by calling 235-5446, 235-2458 or 235-7604.

Hot Springs Termas de Cauquenes

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Mon, 26 Nov 2007 05:34:00 +0000

I'm back from my trip down South. It was so beautiful. I am noticing that in the area around Santiago it is even warmer, summer has finally come! I like things in extremes, and I hope you do to. If soaking in 120-degree mineral water in Carrera Italian marble tubs is your idea of a good time, Termas de Cauquenes hot springs resort may be for you. Located in a quiet valley painted with tall, pale green cypress trees, this hotel complex set alongside the rushing Cachapoal River is less than two hours south of Santiago.

Attendants drew two delicious thermal baths for me during my 24-hour stay at Termas de Cauquenes. The healing waters contain lithium, calcium, sodium and chlorine, and since pre-Hispanic times have been said to heal injuries and rheumatism and to aid in respiratory, digestive and skin ailments, among others.

Lovers of fine food will also enjoy this hot springs resort. Five-course lunches and dinners and an excellent breakfast buffet are included in the not insubstantial price of lodgings here. Dinner included an exceptional smoked salmon appetizer and good corvina (a flaky white fish) meunier. Breakfast was highlighted by a variety of excellent pastries and coffeecakes and surprisingly flavorful coffee. The next day's lunch of beef filet and warm apple strudel with creme anglaise were well made too.

The extensive wine list has a number of interesting choices, especially in its Regional Wines section. Particularly recommended are the wines of Vina La Ronciere -- unctious Chardonnay Reserve as well as elegant Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon Reserves are a bargain at US$19.

My fellow diners included older couples and families, the ambiance is laid back and people keep to themselves.

The first testimonial about "the thermal waters of Rancagua" was written by Jose Toribio in 1581, just 63 years after the founding of Santiago. They were ceded by the Spanish military to the Santo Domingo convent in 1605, and doctors in Santiago sent patients to partake of the healing waters throughout the colonial period.

Despite its distance from the capital, by 1800 the colony's top leaders and landowners were flocking to Termas de Cauquenes. After Napoleon invaded Spain in 1808, Creoles (Spaniards born in the New World) throughout the colonies began talk of independence and the hot springs were a favorite place for discussions among the future Chilean rebels.

In 1814 improvements in the road to Termas de Cauquenes funded by the government of Santiago began, only to be interrupted by the Battle of Rancagua, in which the Spanish royalist army defeated an insurgent independence force. Chile's independence war hero and first president, Bernardo O'Higgins, who fled to Argentina after the disastrous battle, was fond of the springs, and there is a bust in his honor in one of the interior courtyards of the hotel.

The railroad reached the nearby town of Gultro in 1856, reducing the trip from Santiago to less than five hours from the previous 12 or more, while tracks to the U.S.-owned Braden Copper Mine arrived at the hot springs themselves in 1911.

With construction of the Eduardo Frei Montalva Copper Highway from Rancagua east to the huge El Teniente mine in 1970, the railway was removed. Termas de Cauquenes, about 20 km east of Rancagua, can now be reached by car via the highway, which offers gorgeous views of the Andes, and then a short dirt road from the town of Coya. An alternative route is via the bumpy dirt road on the former train bed along the river. This unmarked road is a right turn exactly 5 km east of the Pan-American Highway (Ruta 5) in Rancagua.

In addition, Buses Coya goes to the springs daily from the Rancagua bus terminal at 9:30 am and 11 am, returning at 11 am and 5:15 pm. The terminal is near the Rancagua train station, reached by the quick Metro Train from Santiago's Estacion Central. Also, the hotel offers transportation from Santiago's airport.

After a period of decline, the hot springs resort was purchased by a Swiss couple in 1983, and currently has 50 rooms grouped around two courtyards as well as a spacious dining room, television lounge and bar. There are ping-pong and pool tables, but otherwise entertainment consists of rest and relaxation in the beautiful natural surroundings.

The resort has a park along the river, and the virtually undeveloped Rio Cipreses (Cypress River) National Reserve is just 16 km above the Termas.

(Termas de Cauquenes, phone (72) 899010, fax 899009, email cauquene@ctcinternet.cl. The accommodations include bed and breakfast, or full room and board for slightly more, and are reasonably priced. Inexplicably, the price does not include thermal baths, which cost extra. A whirlpool bath for one person costs a little more than the thermal baths, and even more for two. You can also get massages and bioenergetic and Reiki treatmenets pretty cheaply. These rates apply for day use as well. There is a modest outdoor swimming pool that is heated depending on flow from the hot springs.

There is also a restaurant serving meals to people not staying at the facility, including lunch and dinner, a Friday tasting dinner, Saturday dinner, once (afternoon tea), sandwiches and desserts. Dee-licious!

Carretera Austral in Southern Chile

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Wed, 21 Nov 2007 17:41:00 +0000

This famous stretch of road, which has been dubbed "Pinochet's Folly" after the former dictator, is an adventure in and of itself. It is mostly a single lane gravel road that stretches south from Puerto Montt all the way to Cochrane, followed by Villa O'Higgins.

Reminiscent of the old Alaska-Canada Highway, it passes through the rugged wilds of Patagonia. Ancient forests line the road, with countless pristine streams and lakes to pass, most overflowing with the massive trout that has made Chilean fishing famous around the world. Ferries shuttle vehicles and passengers across the fjords and other areas where the landscape is too extreme to construct a road.

Here is a guide to navigating the Carretera Austral in southern Chile, I hope you find it helpful!

Part I - Puerto Montt to Chaitén.(205 kilometers- 123 miles)

A. Follow Ruta 5, the Pan-American Highway as it hugs the coast, heading south east from Puerto Montt. Enjoy the 20 kms of pavement before you hit the dirt road because it is the last you will see for 1000 kms outside of cities. Follow the road to Caleta Arena (46 kms from Puerto Montt), a tiny settlement dedicated to salmon farming and the northern ferry terminal. Schedules change for the ferry across to Caleta Puelche depending on demand so check at the Transmarchilay office in Puerto Montt before heading out. Though the high season schedule is: La Arena to Puelche every 2 hours starting at 07:45 (until 20:45), Puelche to La Arena every 2 hours starting at 07:00 (last ferry south at 20:00).

B. From Puelche one begins to experience the true beauty of the area. Although the area is inhabited, the drive south to the next ferry is wonderful, with steep, forest-lined mountains providing the backdrop for the ocean side communities along the road. The road enters truly wild areas as it heads inland and winds up into the mountains before descending on the beautiful little town of Rio Negro Hornopirén (104 kilometers from PM). This small town, which is where the ferry leaves for Caleta Gonzalo 4-5 hours to the south, is in one of the most beautiful settings of any place in Chile. Rising majestically behind the town is Hornopirén Volcano (1572 meters), which is the centerpiece of the densely forested National Park of the same name. The impressive panorama is completed by other massive mountains surrounding the village and the open waters of a huge island-filled bay. In town there are simple restaurants, rooms, cabins and camping available, as well as some of the finest (and least well known) fly fishing nearby.

For those with their own vehicle, I highly suggest driving south along the extremely narrow stretch of Ruta 5 until it ends before doubling back and catching the ferry. You will be on a cliff overlooking the ocean on the west and overshadowed by the huge jungle of the temperate rainforest mountains that make the area so outrageous. Waterfalls, granite rock faces, snowy peaks, giant ferns, ancient trees, glacier milk rivers; this is a wonderland. If you have good weather, I suggest getting down and dirty and taking a walk up one of the many vegetation choked canyons that lead in land. A simple 1/2 an hour walk/slog along a river under the dripping canopy will make you understand the inherent value in leaving the few ancient forests that remain in the world as they are. One need not be a tree-hugging environmentalist to be effected by the beauty.

C. The Ferry: Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo
Jan.2-March: once a day at 3:00 in the afternoon with Transmarchilay. If you are bringing a car, be sure to make a reservation at the office in Puerto Montt. Cost: a hefty US$17 per person and US$92 per car under 4 meters.

North from Caleta Gonzalo to Hornopirén: once a day at 09:00 in the morning. Same prices.

D. Caleta Gonzalo is the southern entrance to Parque Pumalin, the new park created by U.S. conservationist Douglas Tompkins. There are reasonably priced campgrounds, nice deluxe cabins and a cafe located next to the ferry ramp. The vast majority of the mountainous fjords of the park are inaccessible except by boat, yet one can get an inside glimpse at its treasures around Caleta Gonzalo where there is a fantastic 3 hour hike/slog through the temperate rainforest to a cascading waterfall; a scene that could easily be imagined to be Hawaii. There is also a wonderful (easy) 10 minute trail to a stand of alerces growing 12 kms south of Caleta Gonzalo. This should not be missed by anyone; the opportunity to gaze upon and walk among trees that have been living for 3000 years is truly a powerful one.

The road continues south through more beautiful scenery for 60 kms before arriving at the city of Chaiten, a sleepy, spread out community located on a large flatland on the edge of the ocean and bordered by the Patagonian mountains.

Soon I'll try to write about how to get from Chaitén to Puyuhuapi

Trauco Chile, Chiloe

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Fri, 16 Nov 2007 11:47:00 +0000

"I'm only staying if there's good food, witches, sunny weather and lashings of pisco," our new found British travel "mate" promised us as we waited by the road, on our way hitch hiking to Quecavi, a hamlet on the eastern side of Chiloe Island.

We´d been warned that the pace of life on Chiloe was slow, but four horses and a salmon truck passing by in the course of four hours was really something. Our mission was to find the witches' caves rumored to be in Quecavi, and to get to the bottom of the infamous Chiloe myths.

Chiloe, a half-hour ferry ride from Puerto Montt across the Chacao Canal, is geographically over 1,000 km from Santiago, and culturally eons away. The main island is about 180 km long, but only 50 km wide, with smaller islands dotted around the edges which make up the archipelagic Chiloe.

At the edge of the Pacific Ocean, Chilotes have for centuries made a subsistence living from fishing and extracting shellfish from the multitudes of rockpools on the island's shores. Chilotes also gather seaweed left at low tide into bundles which they either eat or sell to the Japanese as food or to cosmetics companies.

The myths are entwined with the remote geography and extreme weather of the island, and our first stop on the myth mission was the museum at Ancud. A fortress town founded in 1767 to defend the Chilean coastline from foreign invasion, its museum houses statues of mythical Chilote creatures.

El Trauco is probably the most famous. Hideously ugly, the half-man, half-beast wandered through the depths of the forests which still cover the island, hitting a tree three times with his ax. The resounding echo through the trees would warn any lone unmarried woman that the Trauco was near, and to flee before he raped her. The ones who didn't get away were able to maintain their honor by blaming the mythical Trauco for their fatherless babies.

We were quite certain that the Trauco was still up to his tricks, but we were more interested in the witches. Rumor had it they used to meet up in Quecavi to weave their wicked spells and carry out initiation tests. A would-be-witch had to kiss the bottom of a goat, and carry dirt balanced on a twig.

Any villager who ventured too near to the caves would be scared off by the Imbauche, a fearsome creature which growled and grunted, hopping round on its hands and its left foot, the right one having been broken and pinned to its left shoulder by the witches. The Imbauches were babies stolen from their cribs by witches, who then prevented them from ever returning to their families by handicapping them physically. This mythical security system more than likely hid the truth about deformed babies who disappeared soon after birth. It was also a convenient story to keep nosy neighbors away from the midnight deeds of smugglers.

Once we finally arrived in Quecavi, no one seemed too surprised by our request to find the caves, which turned out to be a short drive away. Down by the river they can only be reached by a dense path. We found them suitably dark and gloomy, but with no sign of the witches. The little boy who showed us the way said to his knowledge the only people who had inhabited them were soldiers on the run from the government in the 1970s.

We then visited the Mache, a traditional wise woman. Her home is set aside from the village - a short walk along the beach on a wooden plankway - and surrounded by flowers alongside a freshwater stream. She told us that she learned her herbal healing and midwifery skills at the beginning of the century from a visiting doctor. Unfortunately, in her old age her ability to gather the plants is failing and with her many of the recipes will be lost - the age of modern medicine has no need of natural remedies. The Mache herself said she goes to the doctor when she is ill and uses modern medication, the proof being a packet of aspirin lying on her nightstand.

For 1,000 pesos a night, we camped in the company of piglets and chickens scratching for food under the apple trees in the orchard of the "white house," easily distinguished because there is only one such house in the hamlet.

From the tent we had a spectacular view of the sea, with mountains from the mainland on the far-off horizon. Although the water was calm on this night, it can be treacherous and is largely responsible for Chiloe's cultural isolation. In the days of sailboats people rarely crossed over to the "continent," as the mainland is referred to, because with at least 150 stormy days on average a year the chances of an easy crossing were slim. Stuck out at sea in bad weather, fishermen might have had the misfortune to see El Caleuche, a phantom boat which appeared at the height of storms. Thinking it was guiding them to safety, they would follow the lights, only to dash themselves to smithereens against the rocks.

The danger of sailing curtailed outside influence, thus allowing the distinct mythical culture to develop. Most Chilotes we spoke to did not believe the myths, but their legacy is omnipresent all over the island, in the names of restaurants, bars, local theater productions, and in the annual fiestas. For example, in days gone by La Pincoya was an entrancing mythical woman who would sit far out to sea, combing her cascades of hair. If her back was to the beach then the shellfish harvests would be minimal that day, but if she faced the harbor then it would be a bountiful collecting day. These days La Pincoya is a great seafood restaurant overlooking the harbor in Ancud, where a superb paila marina, a fish soup bursting with prawns, whitefish and shellfish, costs $6000 for two.

Whatever you are looking for, the best time to visit Chiloe is between December and February. You may want to go soon, because eventually government is planning to build a bridge connecting the island to the mainland at Punta de Gallardo, 50 km southwest of Puerto Montt. Great as this may be for business, it is bound to wear on Chiloe's unique cultural threads.

Chile Earthquake, November 2007

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Fri, 16 Nov 2007 01:54:00 +0000

Chile just had a major earthquake in the North, I feel sorry for all the victims! Luckily, it didn't happen in a major urban area like Santiago. The earthquake was in the north near a town called Calama. People from Antofagasta, the mining town Maria Elena, and other cities were affected too. Many people are homeless, two have died, and under 200 have been reported injured. The president visited while there were aftershocks. They said that in Santiago, La Paz (Bolivia) and Sao Paulo (Brazil) people could feel the quake. That's big! I've been traveling in the south so I didn't feel anything.

Fishing and Transportation to Patagonia, Chile

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Sun, 11 Nov 2007 21:33:00 +0000

Anyone who has traveled in southern Chile knows that the best way to get around is by boat. Traveling by road south of Puerto Montt is nearly impossible because buses running south to Punta Arenas have to do go through Argentina, an exhausting 37-hour trip. Chile has yet to connect the Pan-American highway (which runs the length of the country from Peru south to Puerto Montt) to the Camino Austral (southern highway), which is still under construction. Plus, the road will never go all the way on Chilean soil because of an impassible region of ice and glaciers.

In the future, there will be more transportation options for travelers heading to far southern Chile, but currently there are basically two: flying or taking a boat. For travelers who have a tight travel schedule I would suggest flying. But for those with travel flexibility, the sea route is a great way to go.

The boat from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales, the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park, normally takes three days, and passes through an impressive area of fjords and islands similar to the Inside Passage from Vancouver to Alaska. I'd heard plenty of positive feedback about the boat journey, so I decided to get on board. On Dec. 5 my combination passenger and cargo ship left Puerto Montt a day late, after a mechanical failure with a loading elevator was repaired.

The ship roster read like a NATO roll-call. It seemed as if virtually every Western nation was represented, and because wealthy travelers are not patient with delays, the passengers were anxious to get moving. We left Puerto Montt with a picture perfect Chilean sunset.

Everything seemed pleasant and normal until the sun broke on our first morning at sea, when I awoke to the boat rocking and listing. I immediately went up on deck to escape the cramped quarters of economy class. Fortunately or unfortunately, I was one of the first passengers on deck, and was witness to one of the most disgusting processions I've ever seen. The amount of heaving and regurgitation I witnessed can only be rivaled by the annual staggering mass New Yorkers call the Saint Patrick's Day Parade.

Fortunately, many passengers came prepared for seasickness. They took motion pills and applied the latest technology, a motion sickness patch, though neither seemed to really help. Nervousness among the passengers grew when the captain informed everyone that the waves at night in the Gulfo de Penas (Gulf of Sadness, which faces the open Pacific Ocean) would be around 10 meters high (about thirty feet). To everyone's dismay, they were rolling at just 1.5 meters at the time of this announcement.

Needless to say, the night was a disaster. I would say that over 80 percent of the passengers where stricken with varying degrees of seasickness. The previous night's complaints of "When will this boat be moving!" quickly changed to "Why did I get on this boat!?" It's often said that between the southern island of Chiloe and the far end of the Gulfo de Penas the fish are very well fed, and now I now understand why.

As soon as the boat re-entered the protection of the narrows, everyone's spirits began to lift and dinner stayed down. The boat pushed on as we gently rolled through the majestic solitude of the southern fjords of Chile. We arrived in Puerto Natales only a day and a half late.

Overall I had an excellent time and was afforded the opportunity to meet and befriend several other travelers. My time on the boat was certainly memorable and I would recommend the trip as a fun, beautiful and only temporarily ugly international bonding experience. When choosing your passage to Chilean Patagonia, take the time to consider your travel schedule. If you have the time, take the boat. Remember to bring plenty of film, motion sickness remedies (in hopes they may help) and a strong set of sea-legs.

How to go: NaviMag is the only company with boat trips from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales. Its ship, the Puerto Eden, departs from Puerto Montt every Monday afternoon between November and April (less often the rest of the year) and returns Thursdays from Puerto Natales. There are several different accommodation possibilities. High season rates (December 2000 to March 2001) range from US$318 for a bunk bed to US$792 for a shared double room (per person) and include all meals. NaviMag also has a luxury cruise ship, the Costa Australis, that goes from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, on the Argentine side of Tierra del Fuego Island.

Austral Adventures (www.austral-adventures.com) and Skorpio, as well as Navimag, have various inside passage trips to the Patagonia coast as far south as Lake San Rafael National Park.

Cheap Flights to Chile: Budget Airlines Reviews, Discount Tickets

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Sun, 11 Nov 2007 07:04:00 +0000

Before deciding to move down here to travel and teach English, I did a lot of research on flights to Chile. At first, I didn’t think it would be that hard, but then I started finding out just how much flights to Chile really cost. You see, really inexpensive international flights can be easy to come by – if you’re flying from England to Germany. But if you are flying from Europe or the United States to Chile, it’s a whole different story. To find cheap flight tickets to Chile from Europe, the United States or Australia, you have to scout out the really good deals. I would be flying from L.A. to Santiago, and so I needed to find a definitive provider of cheap flights to Chile. Would I be able to find inexpensive international flights from the U.S. to Chile? It was time for me to find out, so I decided to get serious.

I first started looking for flights to Chile by going online and browsing the Web. Now, when looking to buy stuff online I usually look for consumer reviews of airline flights to Chile, as I know it’s a pretty good way to get the best product. But when I fly, I roll a little bit differently: I don’t care all that much about getting top comfort in the air, what’s most important to me is getting the quickest flight, and ideally the cheapest flight. So I looked for consumer reviews on airline flights to Chile, and reading all the consumer advice about cheap flights to South America was a really educational experience. I found out some really, really interesting stuff that I wouldn’t have learned if I just clicked on the first airline tickets that popped up on the screen.

So basically what I learned is that cheap flights to Chile are totally possible, all through the year. There are a lot of people who say that certain months are cheaper than others, and while there might be some fluctuation, that’s not really a major factor. What is a major factor when you are looking for the best deals on airline tickets to Chile, is knowing where to get them. Because if you subject yourself to the price fluctuations of one or two airlines, then you will miss out on the great deals on cheap airline flights to Chile that being offered by lesser known airlines.

That’s where it became invaluable to compare price reviews on flights going to Chile. What it comes down to is this: the number one mistake with people who buy tickets to fly to Chile, is that they don’t do the research. They are left with the impression that there are only a few carriers like LAN and a couple sketchy low-cost airlines. The reality is that there is an extremely competitive market for flights to South America and Chile. Sure, you won’t have as much selection as if you were flying from the U.S. to Europe, or from Asia to the United States. But you do have choices – more than you might imagine.

When I get going on something, I don’t quit. That’s just how my personality is. I’m a little bit embarrassed to admit it, but I ended up doing quite a lot of research. I looked at all the consumer ratings, reviews and advice on Chile flights, and came up with the following comparisons on which airline tickets are the cheapest.

American Airlines versus Copa Airlines
Just about the only thing that Copa Airlines and American Airlines have in common is that both of these airlines fly to Chile. The rest, they could be operating from different planets. Well, in fact, Copa Airlines is based in Panama – so every flight you take with them between the United States and Chile, or on flights from Chile to Europe or North America, will stop over in Panama. American Airlines is based in the United States, and they are often called North American Airlines, in order to be more specific. In any case, what’s most important is finding out which airline offers the lowest price tickets for Chile flights.

Normally, both of these air carriers can be considered to offer inexpensive flights to Chile, but if you are looking for the cheapest flights to Chile, then you have to watch American Airlines’ Web site like a hawk. Their rates always fluctuate, but it is there that you will find the cheapest flights to Chile – IF you find them in time, and snatch them up. Copa Airlines, on the other hand, will give you a fairly dependable list of cheap flights to Chile, but they rarely drop their fares dramatically in order to offer incredibly low discount flights. That is the domain of American Airlines. So when comparing American Airlines versus Copa Airlines, you’re best bet is to keep a close eye on American Airlines, and if nothing works out with them, you know you can get a pretty good, dependable discount rate on Chile flights .

Taca Airlines versus LAN Chile
I found a lot of consumer reviews that said if you want the most comfortable on Chile Airline flights, LAN Chile is by far the best. But if you want the lowest price on flights to South America, then Taca Airlines is the way to go. A good number of the consumer reviews said that Taca Airlines had really, really bad service, but that the low price made it worth the while. I would have to disagree. First of all, even though I don’t prioritize comfort, I found that Taca Airlines was beyond bad. Secondly, their flights weren’t the most inexpensive that I could find online, by far. If I were to match up both American Airlines and Copa Airlines versus Taca Airlines, the first two would win out by far. They are, hands down, both cheaper and more comfortable than Taca Airlines. So, it’s in that light that I am comparing Taca Airlines versus LAN Chile. LAN is oftentimes the most expensive, there is no doubt about it. But what it has going for it is by far the best airline flying to Chile. But it’s not the cheapest. The cheapest flights to Chile are either on American Airlines or Copa. If you go online and look for special promotions on airline tickets, there are sites where you can find a code and plug it in to get a discount on American Airlines flights to Chile. Those can make your cheap flight even cheaper.

So now that you know how to get cheap, inexpensive flights to Chile at discount prices, here are some links to budget airlines that offer flights to Chile, find a cheap price on a ticket to Chile today!

Lan Airlines - Flights to Chile

Copa Airlines - Flights from United States to Chile

American Airlines - Look for Discount Flights to Chile

Taca Airlines Relatively inexpensive flights to Chile - use this airline as your last resort.

If you're looking for budget airlines in Chile, as in cheap Chilean domestic flights, then here are some helpful resources for researching the best deals on airfare within Chile:

Sky Airline

Aerolineas del Sur

LAN

Browse these carriers for some really inexpensive flights.

Pichilemu Beaches in Central Chile

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Wed, 07 Nov 2007 05:08:00 +0000

A sleepy coastal town of about 4,300 residents, Pichilemu transforms into a bustling summer holiday escape for many Santiago residents. Vina del Mar, this is not.

Instead, Pichilemu’s charm lies in its home style seafood restaurants, horse-drawn carriage taxis, early morning vegetable vendors selling their produce on wagons and its tranquil coastline.

While Pichilemu appears like the Chilean "campo" of the coast, it also is an internationally known surfing mecca. Year round, wet-suit-clad surfers from all parts of the world can be seen plying the waves on Pichilemu’s miles of beaches.

One can easily spend a full weekend at Pichilemu exploring and hiking its surroundings or simply sitting back and enjoying its seaside tranquillity. A friend from California described Pichilemu and its coastline as what California once was some 100 years ago.

According to several life-long Pichileminos, Pichilemu is rapidly changing. While its scenic waves are attracting an international clientele, Pichilemu also is enticing Santiaguinos looking for a laid back country alternative to Vina.
Driving into Pichilemu from San Fernando, you arrive at the principal beach, Playa Principal, along the main, tree-lined Avenida Ortuzar. As you look up into town from the beach, you can not help but notice Ross Park — an imposing, well-kept area surrounded by a colorful balustrade enclosing palm, eucalyptus, and pine trees.

To me, it looked more like an overly manicured backyard. I questioned several people and, not to my surprise, it was a backyard. A Chilean entrepreneur and a member of a prominent family, Agustin Ross Edwards, built the park to face his home, which was later converted to the century-old Hotel Ross. The current owner, a woman from Santiago, opted for this more peaceful town to raise her seven children.

The hotel now has been in her family for the last 30 years. The hotel, along with its park and now defunct casino, bear witness to a once grand past. Today, Ross Hotel show signs of many years gone by and possibly a more difficult present.
The building’s beautiful architecture with a once-inside courtyard, French windows, and hardwood floors needs much repair. But the dining room overlooking the park is impressive with high ceilings and detailed wood moldings, housing original turn of the century furniture. I can imagine Mr. Ross entertaining his guests and appreciating the park and the ocean beyond, no doubt drinking pisco sours and eating mariscos.

A similar hotel, though far better maintained and more charming, is the Chile-España Hotel, also a century old, according to its owner. The rooms lie off a lovely interior courtyard. Both hotels are located in the center of town, which only runs about four to five blocks of paved road. The rest of Pichilemu extends southwest along meandering dirt roads. This is the "campo" and tranquil beaches I speak about — cows, chickens, horses, vegetable vendors along a quiet coastline.

The beaches along this southern end of town extend for a few miles, with high cliffs and interesting rock formations, the most notable and well known being Punta de Lobos. Off the rocks of Sea Lion Point, a visitor can spot pelicans, a curious sea lion and, more likely, groups of surfers.

Few of the surfers could tell you much about Chile, but all spoke highly about the intricacies of Pichilemu’s famous surf. For me, waves are waves, some bigger, some smaller. But Punta de Lobos does offer pretty views of the coastline, the cliffs and naturally, the surfers below.

Visitors can take an interesting hike along Cerro La Cruz, tucked in the center of town and visible from Punta de Lobos. Sections of the hill are forested with pines shielding larger summer homes from the winds. At the summit — only a 15-minute walk up — the layout of the town becomes clear. It is fun to explore here as it shows both ocean views and the valley on the opposite side.

If you are feeling curious and hungry, visit the fishing and salt-producing town of Cahuil, a quick 12-kilometer drive south of Pichilemu. This time of year, you can watch the harvest of the salt ponds on the Cahuil Lagoon. Ocean water is trapped in enclosed ponds evaporating the water and leaving the crystallized salt behind.

Cahuil, though a small village, has about seven restaurants, all full for lunch. Apparently, folks from nearby towns come specifically to Cahuil to savor its local fresh seafood. We were treated to a feast of chupes de mariscos, locos, machas a la parmesana, congrio frito and a few bottles of good wine at the Marisol Restaurant.

Pichilemu can be reached either through San Fernando driving east through Santa Cruz to Pichilemu or through Melipilla-Lituenche-Lake Rapel to Pichilemu. The town is less than four hours by car, or slightly longer by bus.

Merlot vs Carmenere

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Sun, 16 Sep 2007 07:38:00 +0000

We had a very interesting discussion on the Colchagua wine tour about the crazy new wine that was discovered in Chile less than 15 years ago. It is actually a very funny story. Chile didn't know that it was the only wine country in the world producing a grape that was otherwise as good as gone, called Carmenere. A French expert came and tasted the red wine that they had been trying to pass off as Merlot, and identified the rare grape. I couldn't agree more with this article on wines in Chile, the Chilean Carmenere is much tastier than the Merlot!

Trauco Chile, Chiloe

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Sat, 15 Sep 2007 14:43:00 +0000

"We're only staying if there's good food, witches, sunny weather and lashings of pisco," my friend and I promised each other as we waited by the road, on our way hitch hiking to Quecavi, a hamlet on the eastern side of Chiloe Island.

We´d been warned that the pace of life on Chiloe was slow, but four horses and a salmon truck passing by in the course of four hours was really something. Our mission was to find the witches' caves rumored to be in Quecavi, and to get to the bottom of the infamous Chiloe myths.

Chiloe, a half-hour ferry ride from Puerto Montt across the Chacao Canal, is geographically over 1,000 km from Santiago, and culturally eons away. The main island is about 180 km long, but only 50 km wide, with smaller islands dotted around the edges which make up the archipelagic Chiloe.

At the edge of the Pacific Ocean, Chilotes have for centuries made a subsistence living from fishing and extracting shellfish from the multitudes of rockpools on the island's shores. Chilotes also gather seaweed left at low tide into bundles which they either eat or sell to the Japanese as food or to cosmetics companies.

The myths are entwined with the remote geography and extreme weather of the island, and our first stop on the myth mission was the museum at Ancud. A fortress town founded in 1767 to defend the Chilean coastline from foreign invasion, its museum houses statues of mythical Chilote creatures.

El Trauco is probably the most famous. Hideously ugly, the half-man, half-beast wandered through the depths of the forests which still cover the island, hitting a tree three times with his ax. The resounding echo through the trees would warn any lone unmarried woman that the Trauco was near, and to flee before he raped her. The ones who didn't get away were able to maintain their honor by blaming the mythical Trauco for their fatherless babies.

We were quite certain that the Trauco was still up to his tricks, but we were more interested in the witches. Rumor had it they used to meet up in Quecavi to weave their wicked spells and carry out initiation tests. A would-be-witch had to kiss the bottom of a goat, and carry dirt balanced on a twig.

Any villager who ventured too near to the caves would be scared off by the Imbauche, a fearsome creature which growled and grunted, hopping round on its hands and its left foot, the right one having been broken and pinned to its left shoulder by the witches. The Imbauches were babies stolen from their cribs by witches, who then prevented them from ever returning to their families by handicapping them physically. This mythical security system more than likely hid the truth about deformed babies who disappeared soon after birth. It was also a convenient story to keep nosy neighbors away from the midnight deeds of smugglers.

Once we finally arrived in Quecavi, no one seemed too surprised by our request to find the caves, which turned out to be a short drive away. Down by the river they can only be reached by a dense path. We found them suitably dark and gloomy, but with no sign of the witches. The little boy who showed us the way said to his knowledge the only people who had inhabited them were soldiers on the run from the government in the 1970s.

We then visited the Mache, a traditional wise woman. Her home is set aside from the village - a short walk along the beach on a wooden plankway - and surrounded by flowers alongside a freshwater stream. She told us that she learned her herbal healing and midwifery skills at the beginning of the century from a visiting doctor. Unfortunately, in her old age her ability to gather the plants is failing and with her many of the recipes will be lost - the age of modern medicine has no need of natural remedies. The Mache herself said she goes to the doctor when she is ill and uses modern medication, the proof being a packet of aspirin lying on her nightstand.

For 1,000 pesos a night, we camped in the company of piglets and chickens scratching for food under the apple trees in the orchard of the "white house," easily distinguished because there is only one such house in the hamlet.

From the tent we had a spectacular view of the sea, with mountains from the mainland on the far-off horizon. Although the water was calm on this night, it can be treacherous and is largely responsible for Chiloe's cultural isolation. In the days of sailboats people rarely crossed over to the "continent," as the mainland is referred to, because with at least 150 stormy days on average a year the chances of an easy crossing were slim. Stuck out at sea in bad weather, fishermen might have had the misfortune to see El Caleuche, a phantom boat which appeared at the height of storms. Thinking it was guiding them to safety, they would follow the lights, only to dash themselves to smithereens against the rocks.

The danger of sailing curtailed outside influence, thus allowing the distinct mythical culture to develop. Most Chilotes we spoke to did not believe the myths, but their legacy is omnipresent all over the island, in the names of restaurants, bars, local theater productions, and in the annual fiestas. For example, in days gone by La Pincoya was an entrancing mythical woman who would sit far out to sea, combing her cascades of hair. If her back was to the beach then the shellfish harvests would be minimal that day, but if she faced the harbor then it would be a bountiful collecting day. These days La Pincoya is a great seafood restaurant overlooking the harbor in Ancud, where a superb paila marina, a fish soup bursting with prawns, whitefish and shellfish, costs $6000 for two.

Whatever you are looking for, the best time to visit Chiloe is between December and February. You may want to go soon, because the government is planning by 2006 to complete a bridge connecting the island to the mainland at Punta de Gallardo, 50 km southwest of Puerto Montt. Great as this may be for business, it is bound to wear on Chiloe's unique cultural threads.

Santuario de la Naturaleza

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Thu, 13 Sep 2007 10:45:00 +0000

The sometimes oppressive summer heat of Santiago has snapped with a nearly audible sound revealing mothballed sweaters and gray overcoats. There is a briskness pushing the business people through the centro with the same energy that had been renewed by the strong summer sun. The days are shrinking and the afternoon winds are slowing allowing the city's formidable smog to begin to settle in offering us glimpses of the months to come. These changes, to some, can be oppressive. In the centro, in fact, they are oppressive, but they are also ideal opportunities for a day, or a weekend, in the foothills of the cordillera. Two local places, in particular, offer themselves as excellent destinations.

The first of these is the Santuario de la Naturaleza, located in the near suburb of El Arrayan. The park centers itself around the steep valley of El Arrayan creek. After passing through the entrance gate, the road continues for nearly a kilometer to a parking/picnic area that are on either side of the creek. There is a wide variety of picnic sites -- both good and bad -- with tables and barbecue pits. The choice spots, away from the crowds along the creek, are sought after on weekends and make for an excellent picnic. The road veers to the left from the parking lot, ends and marks the beginning of a trail system that winds for 40 kilometers through the Andean foothills. A walk of 30 minutes can bring you to a high ridge with a pristine view of both the river valley and the Andean peaks. The Santuario can be reached by car through Las Condes to El Arrayan, where there are a number of street signs leading you to the Santuario. Local city buses can take you to the center of El Arrayan where you can catch a taxi or colectivo to the Santuario. Hitchhiking from El Arrayan to the Santuario is an alternative option for adventure seekers who prefer jumping in the back of a pick-up.

The second area, perfect for an overnight, is located high up the Cajon del Maipo. The Parque Nacional El Morado begins in the oasis-like village of Lo Valdes, 49 kilometers past San Jose de Maipo. The trail into the park crosses a small river, the source of which is the San Francisco Glacier at the end of the valley. It climbs for approximately 350 meters into the heart of a nearly perfect example of a glacial valley. The trail, in total, is eight kilometers from the town of Lo Valdes to the foot of the glacier. After the first steep rise from the town, the trail comes to several mineral springs that are on both sides of the river. The meadows here offer themselves as a nice place to camp but the real treasure lies a few kilometers further up the valley towards the awesome peak of Morador. The trail climbs a moraine and arrives at a small laguna that is surrounded on two sides by an alpine meadow. This area offers the best camping and the wind shelters indicate its frequent use. The views of the surrounding peaks are remarkable and the night, from full moon to new moon, are dazzling.

From here, the trail continues to the foot of the glacier which also is the beginning of an interesting climb on the Mirador del Morado. Any time of year the nights are cold and a good sleeping bag shelters you from the chilling winds and keeps you cozy and warm to relish the beautiful starry nights.

There is also the option of returning to Lo Valdes to spend the night in the village. There are several inexpensive pensiones, among them Chicos Malos (2885380 or 6234438) come recommended. As an interesting note, the residents of the town opted against electricity when the lines were being installed. They enjoyed the feel of the night unencumbered by electric lights and as a result, the only electricity in the area serves the mine that is on the far side of the river from the town. If the weather permits, it may be tempting to spend some time in the therapeutic mineral waters of Banos Morales. The pool is on the lower edge of town and is fed by the same spring system that is found in the park.

The area is easily reached by car or one can take the buses Cajon del Maipo which leave the Metro Parque O'Higgins at 7:15 every weekend morning and return evenings at 8:00.

Either the Santuario de la Naturaleza or the Parque Morado can be convenient getaways from the gray of the city. Both are within easy reach and are located in areas with enough sun and fresh air to completely recharge for the gruel of the week.

Beaches Near Marbella Resort

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Wed, 12 Sep 2007 08:48:00 +0000

While probably not included on your itinerary of must visits, the unique atmosphere of both Horcon and Cau-Cau beaches warrant a trip. Linked with a stay at the Marbella beachside resort, you’ll have had a good run for your adventure. Accessed via Route 5 north, the most direct turnoff to Horcon exits left at Nogales (follow signs to Marbella). Immediately, the road changes from paved to bumpy dirt and takes you into a picturesque mountain area sparsely populated and very green. While the lack of road signs and remoteness of this route may stimulate a bit of panic, relax, you will eventually end up on paved road and in the town, Puchuncavi. Continue on a few more unpaved roads using the signs to navigate your way to the small, fishing cove of Horcon.

Fishermen’s voices fill the air as they chant and shout out their various catches of the day. Wandering around their makeshift shops of truck beds or boats gives you a real flavor of those who exist by and from the sea. Women with brown weathered faces busily weave nets or clean fish on wooden boards set on the bows of their boats. Pelicans in force add to the hustle bustle as they clamor for the discarded fish entrails thrown on the shoreline. Swarming only inches away, the pelicans give spectators an intimate view of themselves. You can actually see the aqua and green fluorescent hue of their feathers, while the baggy, rubbery underside of their beaks jiggle and expand as entire fish heads slip down their throats.

The fishing town character, laced with a bohemian flavor, has long-haired-thirty-somethings offering an assortment of artesania: mystic-looking crystal pendants hang on leather cords or tie-dyed scarves and shirts. Their booths line the road that runs just in front of the beach. Clustered at the base of wooded cliffs and extending up into the hillside, two-story wooden houses and small restaurants dot the landscape. Enjoy and take in the sights and activity. But for a lazy day stretching out on a towel, travel to Cau-Cau located directly on the other side of the cliff from Horcon.

While the access to Cau-Cau proves difficult, its white sands and beauty make the challenge of getting there worth it. Keep in mind, after you’ve made the third wrong turn, that this also prevents the beach from getting overloaded with hoards of people.

On the dirt road to Horcon, you will drive down a hill into the village. Just as the road begins to descend, pay attention to a blue store on the right. At this store, look to the left and you will see a brick wall with "cau cau" painted on it in small white letters. You turn left here and meander up to a eucalyptus bordered parking area at the end of the road. For 500 pesos, a young attendant guards your car for the day.

You can now access the beach via steep wooden steps. During your descent, glimpse through the scanty fence that runs along the stair case providing privacy to several homes. Like the artisans at Horcon, these homes exude a hippie style: frugal yet eccentric, dome-shaped, and overloaded with windows whose shelves house bottle candleholders and books.

A nudist beach many years ago, Cau- Cau renders a seclusion and tranquil atmosphere not easily obtained at other beaches. Caballo de Mar, a small restaurant, sits right on the beach and offers a sea food Epicurean delight. If you aren’t into large oysters fresh from Horcon or sopa de mariscos, try a cheese, avocado and tomato sandwich. Just sipping tea con leche on the restaurant’s outdoor wooden deck with sand on your bare feet and ocean breezes blowing your hair is fun and novel.
Now that you have traveled off the beaten path, end the day at Marbella Resort and continue your adventure away from the fast pace of city life!

Marbella Resort, considered cost prohibitive by many, offers various packages and reduced prices in the off-season. It earned its 5-star rating for a reason: spread on the cliffs above the exquisite coastline of Aguas Blancas, the hotel’s windows frame endless seascape views.

You can also enjoy the changing colors of the sea from emerald green to foreboding black on various benches along a well-kept and complete golf course. Kid friendly, with a separate golf course made just for the younger generation, they also provide rentals for horseback riding, bicycling, and four-wheeler motorcycles.

If golfing isn’t your thing, there are tennis courts, two outdoor swimming pools, and a full spa complete with exercise equipment, Jacuzzi and a massage therapist.

Unhindered by city smog, pine trees and flowers scent the salty air. Visions of the sea fill your mind, whether you ponder it from the panoramic windows of the hotel restaurant or out on the three-story-high wooden porch of the resort’s beachside restaurant, the Pajarera. Tucked away on the coast between Zapallar and Horcon, the location offers many worthwhile and close-by visits to various beaches.

Give yourself a luxurious treat, with a low season visit to par Marbella Resort. Call their office in Vitacura at 242-1515 or at the resort at 32-931-155.

Trip to San Pedro de Atacama

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Thu, 23 Aug 2007 17:49:00 +0000

San Pedro de Atacama is worth a visit. If it were located in a less interesting geographical area, perhaps somewhere near Curacavi on the road to Viña, the charming colonial remnant alone would merit a half a day drive to see its architecture and impressive museum. As it is, situated in the middle of a unique area in one of the most unusual geographic regions on the planet, it makes a good focal point for a journey through Chile’s north.

San Pedro is a historic functioning city that is the heart of a group of farming communities known as Ayollas. These were originally formed, in Atacameña times, as family farming groups that were spread along the San Pedro River. Most of the people of the area still farm. They grow enough grains to support themselves, along with a small amount of vegetables that are sold in the Calama markets.

The communities remained intact through the Inca conquest in the late 15th century and later the Spanish. In the 19th century, the town became commercially significant as a part of the trade route between Chile and the Argentinean coast until Calama (and its mines) usurped it at the beginning of this century. The area, though, has not suffered significant change as the town does much to reinforce its historic ties.

The roads are all narrow and lined with high adobe walls that surround small plots of farmland. The plaza is paved with stone and faces a small, stark white church that dates from 1745. The facing buildings are fronted with archways and even the potentially imposing Entel phone office fits nicely into the scheme of San Pedro. The history of the area is well detailed in the excellent archaeological museum. The features include several well preserved Atacamanian mummies with hair and clothing intact.

What draws most visitors to the area, however, is the geography. San Pedro is an oasis in the middle of the driest desert on earth. The extent of the dryness becomes clear on the approach to the pueblo as the rock and dirt support absolutely no life. Barren is simply too colorful to describe what you will find there. In geographically ancient times, the whole area was submerged in the ocean. With the formation of the Andes, it slowly began to rise out. A western branch of the Andes, known as the Cordillera de Domeyko, also rose and trapped a large body of ocean between the two ranges. The water evaporated (the salt did not) leaving behind the Salar de Atacama. The Salar is a huge salt plane that is continually increasing as ground water from the high cordillera filters through the soil, dissolves salt, and deposits it on the surface as it evaporates in the high desert air.

Surprisingly, in the middle of this inhospitable environment, there is the Laguna Chaxa. It is a long shallow system of ponds that is the heart of a flamingo breeding ground. The sight of a flock of flamingoes crossing in front of a bone dry volcanic range colored by the setting sun is, to say the least, impressive.

The consistent geologic activity of the area has folded up the western edge of the Salar forming the aptly named Cordillera de Sal. The western edge rises gently only to fall abruptly into a dismaying maze of erosion. Within this geographic kaleidoscope lies the Valle de la Luna. It is an exotic mix of caves, dunes, and raw mountains of all mineral colors. Nearly every night there is a small pilgrimage to the tops of the modest peaks to watch the sun set.

There are other attractions as well including geysers, high alpine lakes, and the remains of a 12th century fortress. Visiting these areas is remarkably easy as a system of tours has been developed that supply transportation in comfortable mini-vans, an informative guide, and meals (depending on the tour) for a reasonable price. There are several reputable agencies though Desert Adventure (phone: 851067) offered excellent service. It is also possible to rent bikes in San Pedro as a worthwhile option to the Valle de la Luna tour. It is an easy 16 km ride from San Pedro into the Valle.

The Accommodations are basic but charming. The Residencial Juanita (tel 851039) is situated on the plaza. The rooms are clean and surround an inner courtyard where one can enjoy a delicious home cooked lunch. It is perhaps one of the best residenciales that I have experienced in Chile. There are other options including the interesting Hostal/Camping Puri.

Getting to San Pedro can be difficult, depending on your budget or schedule. The long bus ride (22 hours) from Santiago to Calama can be nicely split up with nights in La Serena or Copiapo. If time is short, there is air service from Santiago to Calama several times a week. There are three bus companies (Tramaca, Morales Moralitas, and Yusman) that leave regularly to San Pedro from Calama. Even though it is not extremely convenient to get to, the sunny days and clear air make it an excellent option for a winter vacation.

Chilean Desert Trip: San Pedro de Atacama

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Wed, 22 Aug 2007 20:20:00 +0000

While most travelers take in San Pedro en route to somewhere else, it’s an attractive destination in and of itself. I recently spent an entire week there, but would've liked to squeeze in at least three more days.

Literally in the middle of nowhere, this oasis now hosts visitors from around the world - families native to the area and a new generation of settlers: those catching the wave of a new business opportunity. To handle the great influx of curious travelers, new tour companies, hostels and restaurants are sprouting up in this not-so-long-ago secluded region.

Some of the visitors-turned-locals claim that this oasis emits magnetic waves (like negative ions) that make them feel better. Whether it’s an energy force in the air; copper and gold, archeology and exploration; or the stunning natural environment; most folks agree that San Pedro arouses a special feeling in them. Where else can you observe mother nature spew boiling water and sulfuric vapor 15 feet into the air, or watch salmon-colored flamingos dot the sky against an endless background of coffee-shaded salt fields?

As you experience this stark environment, the desert’s vastness gives you space to ponder. Enjoy the deep silence or the sound of wind beating against walls of sand. All of the sights and sounds afford a peace seldom felt in the bustle of city life. Take the slow pace of this old, old town, but remember that you are a guest here. The fragile ecosystem of San Pedro depends on frugal use of water and other resources.

The most direct route to San Pedro requires three segments: the Santiago Airport to Calama ($93,000 pesos round trip), a taxi to the bus station in Calama ($2,000 pesos) and a bus ride to San Pedro ($2,000 pesos). The buses leave twice a day at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m., so plan the air trip accordingly.

As you step off the bus, you enter a pueblo of modest adobe dwellings rich in earth tones. Take a glimpse into a culture that uses scarce resources with dignity. Mud-mixed-with-straw fences blend so well into the natural setting that they don’t interrupt the inherent beauty of the place. The entire town provides a sharp contrast to Santiago, where grandiose houses and dilapidated shacks disrupt nature.

Accommodations come in the form of hostel-type rooms with shared bathrooms ($3,000 pesos per night). Camping is also available.

While many of the adventurers I encountered seemed to be surviving well in the various hostels they were staying in, I promptly changed my Accommodations after one bad night. The plumbing broke down causing a problem for the 20 people who shared two toilets. The hot showers they advertised went out with the plumbing. This, coupled with the owners' dogs who protected the place all night with outbursts of yelping and barking, made my change to the Hosteria de San Pedro timely. My room was quiet, cool, and comfortable with a private bathroom ($19,000-$45,000 pesos per night). Other bonuses include a swimming pool and nice restaurant . With so much tourism going on, I recommend making reservations in advance.

After getting yourself squared away with lodging, you can choose from a vast range of tours. The various companies offer the same excursions for the same price, so it is easy to book a reservation on foot and on short notice.

Make sure you visit the Valle de la Luna just before sunset and the geysers at Tatio as the sun rises. You can ride to Inca ruins on bicycle or travel to Toconao, an old Indian village, on horseback. Foot tours in town offer a nice break from scheduled trips. Walk to the Archaeological Museum and view ancient mummies, or attend Catholic mass on Sunday morning at the San Pedro Colonial Church. The costs vary, but most outings range from gratis to $6,000 pesos.

San Pedro de Atacama

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Mon, 06 Aug 2007 03:33:00 +0000

When I first stepped off the bus in San Pedro de Atacama, the authenticity of this enchanting desert town was immediately evident.

Given its location in Chile's far north, the settlement of some 1,000 is perhaps an unlikely stop on the tourist trail, as to the west the first view is only of dunes and vast rock fields in one of the driest deserts in the world, the Atacama.

But when I looked to the sky and then East, I was awestruck by a volcano 6,000 meters (almost 20,000 feet) high, towering over a rustic adobe church tower, and it immediately became obvious why San Pedro has become the destination it is.

According to the National Tourism Service (Sernatur), San Pedro de Atacama's Region III is the third most popular tourist destination in Chile, even topping Santiago. Dirt streets divide adobe buildings in the small town, but all along there are tour agencies, restaurants, shops and hotels - ample evidence of the area's popularity. The high seasons are December to February and July to August.

The wondrous outdoors surrounding San Pedro is what draws people from far and wide - the Valley of the Moon, the Tatio Geysers and Lake Chaxa are among the most popular, and tours (US$8 to 20 per person) - which you must take unless you have a car- take just one to two days. And a little further north, across the border into Bolivia, the huge Uyuni salt flat is another top attraction.

Beginning in the late afternoon, the nearby Valley of the Moon tour passes through numerous geological wonders that will make you feel like you're on another planet. After stops at a cylindrical depression, 200 meters deep, and Mars Valley, the tour finally arrives at Valley of the Moon. The landscape bears such a striking resemblance to the moon that NASA conducted studies there in the 1970s. Before heading back at around 9 p.m., an excursion through caverns completes the surreal experience.

The Tatio Geyser tour leaves at 4 a.m. When the sun finally rises, the sight of steam spewing from the high desert Altiplano is well worth the sacrifice, not to mention the Andes mountains, illuminated from behind, and, hopefully, a herd of galloping vicuñas.

At over 4,000 meters, the landscape is unique, the air is very cold, and the visitor is awarded with a dip in hot springs in a verdant canyon at tour's end.

Lake Chaxa and its magical flamingos are yet another must- see. Also nearby are Inca ruins accessible on foot or bike. A grocery store on Caracoles Street rents bikes and has maps, as do some tour agencies, and the ruins can be reached within an hour. Past the ruins, the road leads to a dry riverbed that canyons through a sandstone ridge, making for a full day of adventure on your mountain bike.

Our band of travelers found sanctuary from the toils of adventure tourism at Casa Piedra, a restaurant also located on Caracoles Street. A three-course meal with wine is just US$5 - the vegetarian crepes were great. The service and smile of our waitress, Rosanna, kept us loyal, as did the 2-for-1 pisco sour promotion, 7 to 9 p.m. The outdoor patio complete with fire makes for an excellent atmosphere to get to know other travelers from around the world, who come to enjoy an area that remains authentic despite its recent boom.

For lodging in San Pedro, Casa Corvatch is recommended (Calle Antofagasta, 851 101) and the cozy Residencial La Florida is a basic budget choice at US$7 (Calle Tocopilla, 851021). For more upscale accommodations including a pool and 24-hour electricity, the best choice is La Casa de Don Tomas (rooms start at US$50, 851055, www.rdc.cl/dontomas). One notable tour company is Atacama Desert Expeditions (851140, www.adex.cl). The tourist office in the bus station on Calle Licanbur (55-851084) has lots of information on tours and sites.

North of Chile - Atacama Desert

noreply@blogger.com (Admin) — Tue, 31 Jul 2007 16:53:00 +0000

The best way to travel in Chile is with no plans. Just drive off into the vast expanse of the Atacama desert in your rental car, or with your thumb in the air. That's how we ended up in the Atacama Desert, and even crazier, it was on a holiday. If there's one thing more abandoned and lonely than the vast desert expanse, it's Chile on a holiday. We combined the two.

The day we got off of the plane in Antofagasta was Battle of Iquique Day. We had absolutely no plans. Well, actually, we were vaguely attempting to make it to San Pedro by late afternoon - and we knew it had to be via Calama. So there we were, a couple clueless travelers hanging out by the baggage claim, obviously without a cab and without reservations. Eduardo, of course, was eager to provide the cab.

We were in a part of Chile that many pass through, but few really see. It's an eery stretch of abandoned desert highway between Calama and Antofagasta. We were so lucky not to take the bus. Don't take the bus. If you take the bus to Calama you will miss everything.

It was a gorgeous sunny day. Well, it always is in Antofagasta. In fact, if you pay attention, you will notice that you cross the Tropic of Capricorn on the ride between the airport and town.

As we drove along, Eduardo asked us if we would like to take a "special" tour to Calama. It turns out that Eduardo was born in a local nitrate mine not too far away and has lived in the area all of his life. He loves it, would never think of moving and he knows nearly everything about the local history and geography. The drive is technically only 2.5 hours, but there is a lot to see, and Eduardo was willing to take as long as we wanted. As the price was right, 15,000 pesos plus gas, we decided to take a chance.

We needed to pick up a few things for the trip in Antofagasta. Eduardo was happy to oblige, driving us from grocery store to cash machine to hardware store, commenting on the colorful urban scenery on all sides.

(About the hardware store, if you are going to San Pedro, you are going to need a flashlight, as the town generator peters out at about midnight every night, leaving you there in the pitch black.)

The first stop out of town was the ruins of an old silver foundry dating back to the days before the War of the Pacific, when Antofagasta was a part of Bolivian territory. Situated on the coast, the old adobe ruins are beautiful and fascinating, one of many exceptional photo opportunities.

From here, it's into the desert, and what a desert it is. A mere few hundred kilometers south of the only true desert on earth, where the humidity actually reaches an astonishing zero percent, the Atacama desert is a fascinating study of reds, browns and breathtaking blues.

Thanks to Eduardo's running commentary from the front of the cab, however, what on the surface looks like an impressive but useless and lifeless outland becomes an incredibly complex landscape, full of mines, landmarks, ghost towns, graveyards and history. Look out for the several-thousand-year-old pictoglyph, several hundred yards across and in the shape of a lizard. Most impressive of all is Estacion Baquedano. There are actually two Baquedano train stations, one of them abandoned, the other all but.

Around old Baquedano, see the collection of zinc English style bungalows, dating from the early 1900s, where a few poor families still live. The English ran a nitrate mine at Baquedano, selling the nitrate to the Germans to make bombs that were carried across the channel to drop onto London during WWII. Go figure.

This is truly one of the marvels of Chile. In the abandoned yard behind the tracks, several ancient steam engines sit petrifying in the desert sun, along with a couple of cabooses and a small clock tower. Feel free to poke around the barn and crawl on the engines. There doesn't seem to be anyone around who really cares.

Back a little bit off of the road is a graveyard typical of northern Chile, very colorful and with all the plots fenced off with what look exactly like large baby cribs with the beds removed, a truly surreal place. On the other side of this is a plain full of nearly century-old rubbish - shards of china, English beer bottles twisted in the sun, shells and most bizarre, any number of old mining boots, now hardened and shrunk to about the size of a baby's shoe. Hunt around for a few souvenirs before hitting the road again.

We arrived in Calama late in the afternoon, thoroughly happy with ourselves and our new friend. After a frantic last minute search for a straw hat and a quick late lunch of fried fish and salad we said our good-byes and made out for San Pedro, much richer for the experience. By the way, If you go under a full moon, make sure you do the bus ride from Calama to San Pedro in the dark, as this part of the desert is even more stunning under the moon than during the day.

If your Spanish is decent and you would like to make the trip, give Eduardo Iriarte a call at (56-55) 275-170, Tenglo 5690, Villa los Copihues, Antofagasta. He is an excellent and patient guide and is also available for trips north to Tocopilla and Iquique as well as to the south towards National Park Pan de Azucar.