Sunday, December 9, 2007

Banos Morales, Cajon del Maipo near Santiago de Chile

The guidebooks don't do it justice. Lonely Planet, Let’s Go - they all do a poor job of, well, guiding you to and from the town of Cajon del Maipo, which is just outside Santiago de Chile. So unless you have specific directions, arriving there can be an adventure.

Unless, of course, you let me guide the way:

Getting from Santiago to Banos Morales in Cajon del Maipo
Truth be told, there aren't many options. But making lemonade out of this lemon, I'll point out that the journey is very straightforward. The only public transportation that goes all the way to the town is a bus leaving every morning at 7:00am from Estacion Central. If you miss the bus, don't worry - you can take a number of other buses that head toward Cajon del Maipo and stop at Banos Morales, then continue in a shared taxi, also known as a colectivo. The price of the bus is about five dollars, which you pay for on the bus, and the ride takes about three hours. Do note that part of the trip can be windy and bumpy, but that just adds to the excitement.

Even more exciting, of course, is that bus is not in the best condition, and, even if you tired in the morning, its stiff, upright seats defy even the soundest sleepers. But that's the worst of it. I'd still say Cajon del Maipo's sweet location just above Santiago makes it an absolutely ideal destination for a weekend getaway.

So once you get into the general region of Cajon del Maipo, you'll encounter the small pueblo of Banos Morales. The town itself is little more than a collection of ramshackle cabins and camping areas, but there are enough facilities to accommodate people who just want to go on a day hike, as well as hard-core mountaineers looking for adventure travel in the Andes. You can find hand drawn maps at local hostels and cheap places to stay in Banos Morales, such as the Refugio El Volcan, which is located just outside of town.

At this point I've done a lot of hiking in Chile, and I've found it mostly to be an incredibly beautiful experience, everywhere I go. That said, the hiking spots just outside of Banos Morales are really exceptional - if you're in to hiking, you've just found your jackpot. Banos Morales is one of best places to hike, explore and get a close up and personal with the glaciers of the Andes - and again, it's all just a stone's throw away from the big, capital city of Santiago.

By far most easy-access place for hiking near Banos Morales is the Monumento Natural El Morado Natural Park. This park features a breathtaking slice of the canyon that takes you to the spectacular San Francisco Glacier - to get there you get to pass the stunning Laguna El Morado. The hiking trail is moderately difficult and quite steep at parts - fortunately, the bulk of the trail is only slightly inclined.

Indeed, once you get up the steepest part of the trail and get away from the town, you feel totally free from the trappings of urban life and Santiago smog. While trudging along the trail, don’t forget to look around at the beautiful grasslands, the plentiful wild flowers and the lazy river trickling by. The real treat is when you reach the end of the trail and the cool breeze coming off the mountains and the breathtaking view beckon you to sit and absorb the surroundings. To reach the San Francisco glacier will take about 2.5 hours (four hours roundtrip) and is approximately eight kilometers. If this kind of beauty doesn't make you peak, then you'll need to go for more extreme adventure, which is readily available in Cajon del Maipo. Ask around about difficult hikes in the area, as well as rock climbing and mountaineering.

Not a big hiker? Don't worry. Horseback riding is, I mean, HUGE in Chile, and Cajon del Maipo is no exception. Anyone who enjoys horseback riding can easily negotiate a price with any of the guys hanging out in the area right where the bus drops you off in town (Banos Morales, that is).

So, you've enjoyed your day hiking in Cajon del Maipo. You're slightly tanned and somewhat thirsty and, mostly, you wanna fall into your bed and clonk out. Not so fast! If you're not staying overnight, and you've just made a daytrip out of it, then you still need to get back down into town!

Transportation from Cajon del Maipo to Santiago, Chile
Don't be late, or else you're stuck for the night. There is only one daily bus back to town, which leaves at 6:00 p.m.

So enjoy the beauty of the Andes, as well as the reduced crowds of the fall around scenic Banos Morales this weekend.

Here is some more important info that you should know about:

Pay a small fee for entrance to the park. Camping is available in or outside the park along with rustic lodges. Food is limited in the town, and there aren’t any services in the park except one toilet, so bringing food is the best option. Remember to bring plenty of water and sunscreen because the sun is much stronger than in the city, and the altitude will dehydrate you quicker than you would expect.

Thursday, December 6, 2007

Aconcagua, Chile Mountain Climbing

With the Andes looming overhead, Chile is a mountain climber's paradise.

Sunday, December 2, 2007

Valle de Elqui

Amazing. Perhaps the most beautiful landscape colors in the country.