Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Hacienda los Lingues

Hacienda Los Lingues is for connoisseurs — of resorts, food, history, horses and antiques. Just about everything in this charming getaway has a pedigree, from the gracious hosts to the and itself, but you won’t find a bit of pretension here.
When our bus full of Americans pulled into the shaded courtyard, owners Maria Elena Lyon de Claro and German Claro strode down the 18th century verandah to greet us.

The handsome couple entertained us on a wisteria-draped patio with pisco sours, crispy cheese empanadas and anecdotes about life in the country, as we unwound from the two-hour bus ride.

Then Maria Elena led us on a detailed tour of the home that was built on land granted to her husband’s ancestors by the king of Span in 1588. History seeps from every corner. Guests might sleep in the room where Jose Gregorio de Argomedo, a member of Chile’s first government, was born; take afternoon tea in the living room of family portraits that just as easily could hang in a museum; and dine off Limoges china, surrounded by the coats of arms of a line of Chilean aristocracy.

The furnishings tell a story of Chilean settlement: Diaguita pottery, colonial benches, doors carved by early Jesuits, pre-revolutionary French Baccarat chandeliers, German china, 17th century Chilean silver, Brazilian sofas. In perfect English, Maria Elena regaled us with tales of stolen portraits, presidential gift exchanges and the trials of living in a 300-year-old adobe house. (She had to have crooked doors custom made to fit the doorways.)

A chapel converted from a dairy barn in the late 1700s houses a beautiful ivory crucifix and a primitive Peruvian painting of the Virgin Mary. The thick adobe walls and simple wood pews provide a peaceful place for prayer. The resort also hosts weddings, Maria Elena told us.

The house is set in lush gardens shaded by pine and eucalyptus trees. Lunch is either served al fresco in the gardens or in the wine cellar. Because it was a cool day, we dined indoors, cozy inside stone walls covered by drying flowers, garlic and onions. The meal was typically Chilean, with an international flair. We began with an avocado mousse, followed by steaming humitas.

The entree was a flavorful filet accompanied by crisp-tender carrots. For dessert, we enjoyed a selection of ice creams and fruit. The wine flowed freely, and we all made some new friends.

After lunch, we were treated to an exhibition of the Aculeo horses the Claro family raises. In keeping with the historical theme, the horses are pure descendants of the conquistadors’ mounts — a stocky, even-tempered breed.

A huaso dressed in the traditional poncho and scary-looking spurs put a young thoroughbred through its paces, to the delight of the visitors. Maria Elena’s daughter assured us the spurs are never used to poke the horses, but that it’s the jingly sound that motivates them.

Guests can ride the horses over the 10,000-acre estate, exploring farmland and Andean foothills. Overnight guests are encouraged to make themselves at home in the Claro home.

No doors are locked and no one has to sign any bills, until checkout time. It’s the honor system here, and "if you don’t believe in our bill, you don’t pay," says Maria \par Elena. Los Lingues is just one of five Relais & Chateaux members in South America. The hacienda can be reached in Santiago by calling 235-5446, 235-2458 or 235-7604.

Sunday, November 25, 2007

Hot Springs Termas de Cauquenes

I'm back from my trip down South. It was so beautiful. I am noticing that in the area around Santiago it is even warmer, summer has finally come! I like things in extremes, and I hope you do to. If soaking in 120-degree mineral water in Carrera Italian marble tubs is your idea of a good time, Termas de Cauquenes hot springs resort may be for you. Located in a quiet valley painted with tall, pale green cypress trees, this hotel complex set alongside the rushing Cachapoal River is less than two hours south of Santiago.

Attendants drew two delicious thermal baths for me during my 24-hour stay at Termas de Cauquenes. The healing waters contain lithium, calcium, sodium and chlorine, and since pre-Hispanic times have been said to heal injuries and rheumatism and to aid in respiratory, digestive and skin ailments, among others.

Lovers of fine food will also enjoy this hot springs resort. Five-course lunches and dinners and an excellent breakfast buffet are included in the not insubstantial price of lodgings here. Dinner included an exceptional smoked salmon appetizer and good corvina (a flaky white fish) meunier. Breakfast was highlighted by a variety of excellent pastries and coffeecakes and surprisingly flavorful coffee. The next day's lunch of beef filet and warm apple strudel with creme anglaise were well made too.

The extensive wine list has a number of interesting choices, especially in its Regional Wines section. Particularly recommended are the wines of Vina La Ronciere -- unctious Chardonnay Reserve as well as elegant Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon Reserves are a bargain at US$19.

My fellow diners included older couples and families, the ambiance is laid back and people keep to themselves.

The first testimonial about "the thermal waters of Rancagua" was written by Jose Toribio in 1581, just 63 years after the founding of Santiago. They were ceded by the Spanish military to the Santo Domingo convent in 1605, and doctors in Santiago sent patients to partake of the healing waters throughout the colonial period.

Despite its distance from the capital, by 1800 the colony's top leaders and landowners were flocking to Termas de Cauquenes. After Napoleon invaded Spain in 1808, Creoles (Spaniards born in the New World) throughout the colonies began talk of independence and the hot springs were a favorite place for discussions among the future Chilean rebels.

In 1814 improvements in the road to Termas de Cauquenes funded by the government of Santiago began, only to be interrupted by the Battle of Rancagua, in which the Spanish royalist army defeated an insurgent independence force. Chile's independence war hero and first president, Bernardo O'Higgins, who fled to Argentina after the disastrous battle, was fond of the springs, and there is a bust in his honor in one of the interior courtyards of the hotel.

The railroad reached the nearby town of Gultro in 1856, reducing the trip from Santiago to less than five hours from the previous 12 or more, while tracks to the U.S.-owned Braden Copper Mine arrived at the hot springs themselves in 1911.

With construction of the Eduardo Frei Montalva Copper Highway from Rancagua east to the huge El Teniente mine in 1970, the railway was removed. Termas de Cauquenes, about 20 km east of Rancagua, can now be reached by car via the highway, which offers gorgeous views of the Andes, and then a short dirt road from the town of Coya. An alternative route is via the bumpy dirt road on the former train bed along the river. This unmarked road is a right turn exactly 5 km east of the Pan-American Highway (Ruta 5) in Rancagua.

In addition, Buses Coya goes to the springs daily from the Rancagua bus terminal at 9:30 am and 11 am, returning at 11 am and 5:15 pm. The terminal is near the Rancagua train station, reached by the quick Metro Train from Santiago's Estacion Central. Also, the hotel offers transportation from Santiago's airport.

After a period of decline, the hot springs resort was purchased by a Swiss couple in 1983, and currently has 50 rooms grouped around two courtyards as well as a spacious dining room, television lounge and bar. There are ping-pong and pool tables, but otherwise entertainment consists of rest and relaxation in the beautiful natural surroundings.

The resort has a park along the river, and the virtually undeveloped Rio Cipreses (Cypress River) National Reserve is just 16 km above the Termas.

(Termas de Cauquenes, phone (72) 899010, fax 899009, email cauquene@ctcinternet.cl. The accommodations include bed and breakfast, or full room and board for slightly more, and are reasonably priced. Inexplicably, the price does not include thermal baths, which cost extra. A whirlpool bath for one person costs a little more than the thermal baths, and even more for two. You can also get massages and bioenergetic and Reiki treatmenets pretty cheaply. These rates apply for day use as well. There is a modest outdoor swimming pool that is heated depending on flow from the hot springs.

There is also a restaurant serving meals to people not staying at the facility, including lunch and dinner, a Friday tasting dinner, Saturday dinner, once (afternoon tea), sandwiches and desserts. Dee-licious!

Wednesday, November 21, 2007

Carretera Austral in Southern Chile

This famous stretch of road, which has been dubbed "Pinochet's Folly" after the former dictator, is an adventure in and of itself. It is mostly a single lane gravel road that stretches south from Puerto Montt all the way to Cochrane, followed by Villa O'Higgins.

Reminiscent of the old Alaska-Canada Highway, it passes through the rugged wilds of Patagonia. Ancient forests line the road, with countless pristine streams and lakes to pass, most overflowing with the massive trout that has made Chilean fishing famous around the world. Ferries shuttle vehicles and passengers across the fjords and other areas where the landscape is too extreme to construct a road.

Here is a guide to navigating the Carretera Austral in southern Chile, I hope you find it helpful!

Part I - Puerto Montt to Chaitén.(205 kilometers- 123 miles)

A. Follow Ruta 5, the Pan-American Highway as it hugs the coast, heading south east from Puerto Montt. Enjoy the 20 kms of pavement before you hit the dirt road because it is the last you will see for 1000 kms outside of cities. Follow the road to Caleta Arena (46 kms from Puerto Montt), a tiny settlement dedicated to salmon farming and the northern ferry terminal. Schedules change for the ferry across to Caleta Puelche depending on demand so check at the Transmarchilay office in Puerto Montt before heading out. Though the high season schedule is: La Arena to Puelche every 2 hours starting at 07:45 (until 20:45), Puelche to La Arena every 2 hours starting at 07:00 (last ferry south at 20:00).

B. From Puelche one begins to experience the true beauty of the area. Although the area is inhabited, the drive south to the next ferry is wonderful, with steep, forest-lined mountains providing the backdrop for the ocean side communities along the road. The road enters truly wild areas as it heads inland and winds up into the mountains before descending on the beautiful little town of Rio Negro Hornopirén (104 kilometers from PM). This small town, which is where the ferry leaves for Caleta Gonzalo 4-5 hours to the south, is in one of the most beautiful settings of any place in Chile. Rising majestically behind the town is Hornopirén Volcano (1572 meters), which is the centerpiece of the densely forested National Park of the same name. The impressive panorama is completed by other massive mountains surrounding the village and the open waters of a huge island-filled bay. In town there are simple restaurants, rooms, cabins and camping available, as well as some of the finest (and least well known) fly fishing nearby.

For those with their own vehicle, I highly suggest driving south along the extremely narrow stretch of Ruta 5 until it ends before doubling back and catching the ferry. You will be on a cliff overlooking the ocean on the west and overshadowed by the huge jungle of the temperate rainforest mountains that make the area so outrageous. Waterfalls, granite rock faces, snowy peaks, giant ferns, ancient trees, glacier milk rivers; this is a wonderland. If you have good weather, I suggest getting down and dirty and taking a walk up one of the many vegetation choked canyons that lead in land. A simple 1/2 an hour walk/slog along a river under the dripping canopy will make you understand the inherent value in leaving the few ancient forests that remain in the world as they are. One need not be a tree-hugging environmentalist to be effected by the beauty.

C. The Ferry: Hornopirén to Caleta Gonzalo
Jan.2-March: once a day at 3:00 in the afternoon with Transmarchilay. If you are bringing a car, be sure to make a reservation at the office in Puerto Montt. Cost: a hefty US$17 per person and US$92 per car under 4 meters.

North from Caleta Gonzalo to Hornopirén: once a day at 09:00 in the morning. Same prices.

D. Caleta Gonzalo is the southern entrance to Parque Pumalin, the new park created by U.S. conservationist Douglas Tompkins. There are reasonably priced campgrounds, nice deluxe cabins and a cafe located next to the ferry ramp. The vast majority of the mountainous fjords of the park are inaccessible except by boat, yet one can get an inside glimpse at its treasures around Caleta Gonzalo where there is a fantastic 3 hour hike/slog through the temperate rainforest to a cascading waterfall; a scene that could easily be imagined to be Hawaii. There is also a wonderful (easy) 10 minute trail to a stand of alerces growing 12 kms south of Caleta Gonzalo. This should not be missed by anyone; the opportunity to gaze upon and walk among trees that have been living for 3000 years is truly a powerful one.

The road continues south through more beautiful scenery for 60 kms before arriving at the city of Chaiten, a sleepy, spread out community located on a large flatland on the edge of the ocean and bordered by the Patagonian mountains.

Soon I'll try to write about how to get from Chaitén to Puyuhuapi

Friday, November 16, 2007

Trauco Chile, Chiloe

"I'm only staying if there's good food, witches, sunny weather and lashings of pisco," our new found British travel "mate" promised us as we waited by the road, on our way hitch hiking to Quecavi, a hamlet on the eastern side of Chiloe Island.

We´d been warned that the pace of life on Chiloe was slow, but four horses and a salmon truck passing by in the course of four hours was really something. Our mission was to find the witches' caves rumored to be in Quecavi, and to get to the bottom of the infamous Chiloe myths.

Chiloe, a half-hour ferry ride from Puerto Montt across the Chacao Canal, is geographically over 1,000 km from Santiago, and culturally eons away. The main island is about 180 km long, but only 50 km wide, with smaller islands dotted around the edges which make up the archipelagic Chiloe.

At the edge of the Pacific Ocean, Chilotes have for centuries made a subsistence living from fishing and extracting shellfish from the multitudes of rockpools on the island's shores. Chilotes also gather seaweed left at low tide into bundles which they either eat or sell to the Japanese as food or to cosmetics companies.

The myths are entwined with the remote geography and extreme weather of the island, and our first stop on the myth mission was the museum at Ancud. A fortress town founded in 1767 to defend the Chilean coastline from foreign invasion, its museum houses statues of mythical Chilote creatures.

El Trauco is probably the most famous. Hideously ugly, the half-man, half-beast wandered through the depths of the forests which still cover the island, hitting a tree three times with his ax. The resounding echo through the trees would warn any lone unmarried woman that the Trauco was near, and to flee before he raped her. The ones who didn't get away were able to maintain their honor by blaming the mythical Trauco for their fatherless babies.

We were quite certain that the Trauco was still up to his tricks, but we were more interested in the witches. Rumor had it they used to meet up in Quecavi to weave their wicked spells and carry out initiation tests. A would-be-witch had to kiss the bottom of a goat, and carry dirt balanced on a twig.

Any villager who ventured too near to the caves would be scared off by the Imbauche, a fearsome creature which growled and grunted, hopping round on its hands and its left foot, the right one having been broken and pinned to its left shoulder by the witches. The Imbauches were babies stolen from their cribs by witches, who then prevented them from ever returning to their families by handicapping them physically. This mythical security system more than likely hid the truth about deformed babies who disappeared soon after birth. It was also a convenient story to keep nosy neighbors away from the midnight deeds of smugglers.

Once we finally arrived in Quecavi, no one seemed too surprised by our request to find the caves, which turned out to be a short drive away. Down by the river they can only be reached by a dense path. We found them suitably dark and gloomy, but with no sign of the witches. The little boy who showed us the way said to his knowledge the only people who had inhabited them were soldiers on the run from the government in the 1970s.

We then visited the Mache, a traditional wise woman. Her home is set aside from the village - a short walk along the beach on a wooden plankway - and surrounded by flowers alongside a freshwater stream. She told us that she learned her herbal healing and midwifery skills at the beginning of the century from a visiting doctor. Unfortunately, in her old age her ability to gather the plants is failing and with her many of the recipes will be lost - the age of modern medicine has no need of natural remedies. The Mache herself said she goes to the doctor when she is ill and uses modern medication, the proof being a packet of aspirin lying on her nightstand.

For 1,000 pesos a night, we camped in the company of piglets and chickens scratching for food under the apple trees in the orchard of the "white house," easily distinguished because there is only one such house in the hamlet.

From the tent we had a spectacular view of the sea, with mountains from the mainland on the far-off horizon. Although the water was calm on this night, it can be treacherous and is largely responsible for Chiloe's cultural isolation. In the days of sailboats people rarely crossed over to the "continent," as the mainland is referred to, because with at least 150 stormy days on average a year the chances of an easy crossing were slim. Stuck out at sea in bad weather, fishermen might have had the misfortune to see El Caleuche, a phantom boat which appeared at the height of storms. Thinking it was guiding them to safety, they would follow the lights, only to dash themselves to smithereens against the rocks.

The danger of sailing curtailed outside influence, thus allowing the distinct mythical culture to develop. Most Chilotes we spoke to did not believe the myths, but their legacy is omnipresent all over the island, in the names of restaurants, bars, local theater productions, and in the annual fiestas. For example, in days gone by La Pincoya was an entrancing mythical woman who would sit far out to sea, combing her cascades of hair. If her back was to the beach then the shellfish harvests would be minimal that day, but if she faced the harbor then it would be a bountiful collecting day. These days La Pincoya is a great seafood restaurant overlooking the harbor in Ancud, where a superb paila marina, a fish soup bursting with prawns, whitefish and shellfish, costs $6000 for two.

Whatever you are looking for, the best time to visit Chiloe is between December and February. You may want to go soon, because eventually government is planning to build a bridge connecting the island to the mainland at Punta de Gallardo, 50 km southwest of Puerto Montt. Great as this may be for business, it is bound to wear on Chiloe's unique cultural threads.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

Chile Earthquake, November 2007

Chile just had a major earthquake in the North, I feel sorry for all the victims! Luckily, it didn't happen in a major urban area like Santiago. The earthquake was in the north near a town called Calama. People from Antofagasta, the mining town Maria Elena, and other cities were affected too. Many people are homeless, two have died, and under 200 have been reported injured. The president visited while there were aftershocks. They said that in Santiago, La Paz (Bolivia) and Sao Paulo (Brazil) people could feel the quake. That's big! I've been traveling in the south so I didn't feel anything.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Fishing and Transportation to Patagonia, Chile


Anyone who has traveled in southern Chile knows that the best way to get around is by boat. Traveling by road south of Puerto Montt is nearly impossible because buses running south to Punta Arenas have to do go through Argentina, an exhausting 37-hour trip. Chile has yet to connect the Pan-American highway (which runs the length of the country from Peru south to Puerto Montt) to the Camino Austral (southern highway), which is still under construction. Plus, the road will never go all the way on Chilean soil because of an impassible region of ice and glaciers.

In the future, there will be more transportation options for travelers heading to far southern Chile, but currently there are basically two: flying or taking a boat. For travelers who have a tight travel schedule I would suggest flying. But for those with travel flexibility, the sea route is a great way to go.

The boat from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales, the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park, normally takes three days, and passes through an impressive area of fjords and islands similar to the Inside Passage from Vancouver to Alaska. I'd heard plenty of positive feedback about the boat journey, so I decided to get on board. On Dec. 5 my combination passenger and cargo ship left Puerto Montt a day late, after a mechanical failure with a loading elevator was repaired.

The ship roster read like a NATO roll-call. It seemed as if virtually every Western nation was represented, and because wealthy travelers are not patient with delays, the passengers were anxious to get moving. We left Puerto Montt with a picture perfect Chilean sunset.

Everything seemed pleasant and normal until the sun broke on our first morning at sea, when I awoke to the boat rocking and listing. I immediately went up on deck to escape the cramped quarters of economy class. Fortunately or unfortunately, I was one of the first passengers on deck, and was witness to one of the most disgusting processions I've ever seen. The amount of heaving and regurgitation I witnessed can only be rivaled by the annual staggering mass New Yorkers call the Saint Patrick's Day Parade.

Fortunately, many passengers came prepared for seasickness. They took motion pills and applied the latest technology, a motion sickness patch, though neither seemed to really help. Nervousness among the passengers grew when the captain informed everyone that the waves at night in the Gulfo de Penas (Gulf of Sadness, which faces the open Pacific Ocean) would be around 10 meters high (about thirty feet). To everyone's dismay, they were rolling at just 1.5 meters at the time of this announcement.

Needless to say, the night was a disaster. I would say that over 80 percent of the passengers where stricken with varying degrees of seasickness. The previous night's complaints of "When will this boat be moving!" quickly changed to "Why did I get on this boat!?" It's often said that between the southern island of Chiloe and the far end of the Gulfo de Penas the fish are very well fed, and now I now understand why.

As soon as the boat re-entered the protection of the narrows, everyone's spirits began to lift and dinner stayed down. The boat pushed on as we gently rolled through the majestic solitude of the southern fjords of Chile. We arrived in Puerto Natales only a day and a half late.

Overall I had an excellent time and was afforded the opportunity to meet and befriend several other travelers. My time on the boat was certainly memorable and I would recommend the trip as a fun, beautiful and only temporarily ugly international bonding experience. When choosing your passage to Chilean Patagonia, take the time to consider your travel schedule. If you have the time, take the boat. Remember to bring plenty of film, motion sickness remedies (in hopes they may help) and a strong set of sea-legs.

How to go: NaviMag is the only company with boat trips from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales. Its ship, the Puerto Eden, departs from Puerto Montt every Monday afternoon between November and April (less often the rest of the year) and returns Thursdays from Puerto Natales. There are several different accommodation possibilities. High season rates (December 2000 to March 2001) range from US$318 for a bunk bed to US$792 for a shared double room (per person) and include all meals. NaviMag also has a luxury cruise ship, the Costa Australis, that goes from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia, on the Argentine side of Tierra del Fuego Island.

Austral Adventures (www.austral-adventures.com) and Skorpio, as well as Navimag, have various inside passage trips to the Patagonia coast as far south as Lake San Rafael National Park.

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Saturday, November 10, 2007

Cheap Flights to Chile: Budget Airlines Reviews, Discount Tickets

Before deciding to move down here to travel and teach English, I did a lot of research on flights to Chile. At first, I didn’t think it would be that hard, but then I started finding out just how much flights to Chile really cost. You see, really inexpensive international flights can be easy to come by – if you’re flying from England to Germany. But if you are flying from Europe or the United States to Chile, it’s a whole different story. To find cheap flight tickets to Chile from Europe, the United States or Australia, you have to scout out the really good deals. I would be flying from L.A. to Santiago, and so I needed to find a definitive provider of cheap flights to Chile. Would I be able to find inexpensive international flights from the U.S. to Chile? It was time for me to find out, so I decided to get serious.

I first started looking for flights to Chile by going online and browsing the Web. Now, when looking to buy stuff online I usually look for consumer reviews of airline flights to Chile, as I know it’s a pretty good way to get the best product. But when I fly, I roll a little bit differently: I don’t care all that much about getting top comfort in the air, what’s most important to me is getting the quickest flight, and ideally the cheapest flight. So I looked for consumer reviews on airline flights to Chile, and reading all the consumer advice about cheap flights to South America was a really educational experience. I found out some really, really interesting stuff that I wouldn’t have learned if I just clicked on the first airline tickets that popped up on the screen.

So basically what I learned is that cheap flights to Chile are totally possible, all through the year. There are a lot of people who say that certain months are cheaper than others, and while there might be some fluctuation, that’s not really a major factor. What is a major factor when you are looking for the best deals on airline tickets to Chile, is knowing where to get them. Because if you subject yourself to the price fluctuations of one or two airlines, then you will miss out on the great deals on cheap airline flights to Chile that being offered by lesser known airlines.

That’s where it became invaluable to compare price reviews on flights going to Chile. What it comes down to is this: the number one mistake with people who buy tickets to fly to Chile, is that they don’t do the research. They are left with the impression that there are only a few carriers like LAN and a couple sketchy low-cost airlines. The reality is that there is an extremely competitive market for flights to South America and Chile. Sure, you won’t have as much selection as if you were flying from the U.S. to Europe, or from Asia to the United States. But you do have choices – more than you might imagine.

When I get going on something, I don’t quit. That’s just how my personality is. I’m a little bit embarrassed to admit it, but I ended up doing quite a lot of research. I looked at all the consumer ratings, reviews and advice on Chile flights, and came up with the following comparisons on which airline tickets are the cheapest.

American Airlines versus Copa Airlines
Just about the only thing that Copa Airlines and American Airlines have in common is that both of these airlines fly to Chile. The rest, they could be operating from different planets. Well, in fact, Copa Airlines is based in Panama – so every flight you take with them between the United States and Chile, or on flights from Chile to Europe or North America, will stop over in Panama. American Airlines is based in the United States, and they are often called North American Airlines, in order to be more specific. In any case, what’s most important is finding out which airline offers the lowest price tickets for Chile flights.

Normally, both of these air carriers can be considered to offer inexpensive flights to Chile, but if you are looking for the cheapest flights to Chile, then you have to watch American Airlines’ Web site like a hawk. Their rates always fluctuate, but it is there that you will find the cheapest flights to Chile – IF you find them in time, and snatch them up. Copa Airlines, on the other hand, will give you a fairly dependable list of cheap flights to Chile, but they rarely drop their fares dramatically in order to offer incredibly low discount flights. That is the domain of American Airlines. So when comparing American Airlines versus Copa Airlines, you’re best bet is to keep a close eye on American Airlines, and if nothing works out with them, you know you can get a pretty good, dependable discount rate on Chile flights .

Taca Airlines versus LAN Chile

I found a lot of consumer reviews that said if you want the most comfortable on Chile Airline flights, LAN Chile is by far the best. But if you want the lowest price on flights to South America, then Taca Airlines is the way to go. A good number of the consumer reviews said that Taca Airlines had really, really bad service, but that the low price made it worth the while. I would have to disagree. First of all, even though I don’t prioritize comfort, I found that Taca Airlines was beyond bad. Secondly, their flights weren’t the most inexpensive that I could find online, by far. If I were to match up both American Airlines and Copa Airlines versus Taca Airlines, the first two would win out by far. They are, hands down, both cheaper and more comfortable than Taca Airlines. So, it’s in that light that I am comparing Taca Airlines versus LAN Chile. LAN is oftentimes the most expensive, there is no doubt about it. But what it has going for it is by far the best airline flying to Chile. But it’s not the cheapest. The cheapest flights to Chile are either on American Airlines or Copa. If you go online and look for special promotions on airline tickets, there are sites where you can find a code and plug it in to get a discount on American Airlines flights to Chile. Those can make your cheap flight even cheaper.

So now that you know how to get cheap, inexpensive flights to Chile at discount prices, here are some links to budget airlines that offer flights to Chile, find a cheap price on a ticket to Chile today!


Lan Airlines - Flights to Chile


Copa Airlines - Flights from United States to Chile

American Airlines - Look for Discount Flights to Chile

Taca Airlines Relatively inexpensive flights to Chile - use this airline as your last resort.

If you're looking for budget airlines in Chile, as in cheap Chilean domestic flights, then here are some helpful resources for researching the best deals on airfare within Chile:

Sky Airline

Aerolineas del Sur

LAN

Browse these carriers for some really inexpensive flights.

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Tuesday, November 6, 2007

Pichilemu Beaches in Central Chile

A sleepy coastal town of about 4,300 residents, Pichilemu transforms into a bustling summer holiday escape for many Santiago residents. Vina del Mar, this is not.

Instead, Pichilemu’s charm lies in its home style seafood restaurants, horse-drawn carriage taxis, early morning vegetable vendors selling their produce on wagons and its tranquil coastline.

While Pichilemu appears like the Chilean "campo" of the coast, it also is an internationally known surfing mecca. Year round, wet-suit-clad surfers from all parts of the world can be seen plying the waves on Pichilemu’s miles of beaches.

One can easily spend a full weekend at Pichilemu exploring and hiking its surroundings or simply sitting back and enjoying its seaside tranquillity. A friend from California described Pichilemu and its coastline as what California once was some 100 years ago.

According to several life-long Pichileminos, Pichilemu is rapidly changing. While its scenic waves are attracting an international clientele, Pichilemu also is enticing Santiaguinos looking for a laid back country alternative to Vina.
Driving into Pichilemu from San Fernando, you arrive at the principal beach, Playa Principal, along the main, tree-lined Avenida Ortuzar. As you look up into town from the beach, you can not help but notice Ross Park — an imposing, well-kept area surrounded by a colorful balustrade enclosing palm, eucalyptus, and pine trees.

To me, it looked more like an overly manicured backyard. I questioned several people and, not to my surprise, it was a backyard. A Chilean entrepreneur and a member of a prominent family, Agustin Ross Edwards, built the park to face his home, which was later converted to the century-old Hotel Ross. The current owner, a woman from Santiago, opted for this more peaceful town to raise her seven children.

The hotel now has been in her family for the last 30 years. The hotel, along with its park and now defunct casino, bear witness to a once grand past. Today, Ross Hotel show signs of many years gone by and possibly a more difficult present.
The building’s beautiful architecture with a once-inside courtyard, French windows, and hardwood floors needs much repair. But the dining room overlooking the park is impressive with high ceilings and detailed wood moldings, housing original turn of the century furniture. I can imagine Mr. Ross entertaining his guests and appreciating the park and the ocean beyond, no doubt drinking pisco sours and eating mariscos.

A similar hotel, though far better maintained and more charming, is the Chile-España Hotel, also a century old, according to its owner. The rooms lie off a lovely interior courtyard. Both hotels are located in the center of town, which only runs about four to five blocks of paved road. The rest of Pichilemu extends southwest along meandering dirt roads. This is the "campo" and tranquil beaches I speak about — cows, chickens, horses, vegetable vendors along a quiet coastline.

The beaches along this southern end of town extend for a few miles, with high cliffs and interesting rock formations, the most notable and well known being Punta de Lobos. Off the rocks of Sea Lion Point, a visitor can spot pelicans, a curious sea lion and, more likely, groups of surfers.

Few of the surfers could tell you much about Chile, but all spoke highly about the intricacies of Pichilemu’s famous surf. For me, waves are waves, some bigger, some smaller. But Punta de Lobos does offer pretty views of the coastline, the cliffs and naturally, the surfers below.

Visitors can take an interesting hike along Cerro La Cruz, tucked in the center of town and visible from Punta de Lobos. Sections of the hill are forested with pines shielding larger summer homes from the winds. At the summit — only a 15-minute walk up — the layout of the town becomes clear. It is fun to explore here as it shows both ocean views and the valley on the opposite side.

If you are feeling curious and hungry, visit the fishing and salt-producing town of Cahuil, a quick 12-kilometer drive south of Pichilemu. This time of year, you can watch the harvest of the salt ponds on the Cahuil Lagoon. Ocean water is trapped in enclosed ponds evaporating the water and leaving the crystallized salt behind.

Cahuil, though a small village, has about seven restaurants, all full for lunch. Apparently, folks from nearby towns come specifically to Cahuil to savor its local fresh seafood. We were treated to a feast of chupes de mariscos, locos, machas a la parmesana, congrio frito and a few bottles of good wine at the Marisol Restaurant.

Pichilemu can be reached either through San Fernando driving east through Santa Cruz to Pichilemu or through Melipilla-Lituenche-Lake Rapel to Pichilemu. The town is less than four hours by car, or slightly longer by bus.