Trip to San Pedro de Atacama

San Pedro de Atacama is worth a visit. If it were located in a less interesting geographical area, perhaps somewhere near Curacavi on the road to Viña, the charming colonial remnant alone would merit a half a day drive to see its architecture and impressive museum. As it is, situated in the middle of a unique area in one of the most unusual geographic regions on the planet, it makes a good focal point for a journey through Chile’s north.

San Pedro is a historic functioning city that is the heart of a group of farming communities known as Ayollas. These were originally formed, in Atacameña times, as family farming groups that were spread along the San Pedro River. Most of the people of the area still farm. They grow enough grains to support themselves, along with a small amount of vegetables that are sold in the Calama markets.

The communities remained intact through the Inca conquest in the late 15th century and later the Spanish. In the 19th century, the town became commercially significant as a part of the trade route between Chile and the Argentinean coast until Calama (and its mines) usurped it at the beginning of this century. The area, though, has not suffered significant change as the town does much to reinforce its historic ties.

The roads are all narrow and lined with high adobe walls that surround small plots of farmland. The plaza is paved with stone and faces a small, stark white church that dates from 1745. The facing buildings are fronted with archways and even the potentially imposing Entel phone office fits nicely into the scheme of San Pedro. The history of the area is well detailed in the excellent archaeological museum. The features include several well preserved Atacamanian mummies with hair and clothing intact.

What draws most visitors to the area, however, is the geography. San Pedro is an oasis in the middle of the driest desert on earth. The extent of the dryness becomes clear on the approach to the pueblo as the rock and dirt support absolutely no life. Barren is simply too colorful to describe what you will find there. In geographically ancient times, the whole area was submerged in the ocean. With the formation of the Andes, it slowly began to rise out. A western branch of the Andes, known as the Cordillera de Domeyko, also rose and trapped a large body of ocean between the two ranges. The water evaporated (the salt did not) leaving behind the Salar de Atacama. The Salar is a huge salt plane that is continually increasing as ground water from the high cordillera filters through the soil, dissolves salt, and deposits it on the surface as it evaporates in the high desert air.

Surprisingly, in the middle of this inhospitable environment, there is the Laguna Chaxa. It is a long shallow system of ponds that is the heart of a flamingo breeding ground. The sight of a flock of flamingoes crossing in front of a bone dry volcanic range colored by the setting sun is, to say the least, impressive.

The consistent geologic activity of the area has folded up the western edge of the Salar forming the aptly named Cordillera de Sal. The western edge rises gently only to fall abruptly into a dismaying maze of erosion. Within this geographic kaleidoscope lies the Valle de la Luna. It is an exotic mix of caves, dunes, and raw mountains of all mineral colors. Nearly every night there is a small pilgrimage to the tops of the modest peaks to watch the sun set.

There are other attractions as well including geysers, high alpine lakes, and the remains of a 12th century fortress. Visiting these areas is remarkably easy as a system of tours has been developed that supply transportation in comfortable mini-vans, an informative guide, and meals (depending on the tour) for a reasonable price. There are several reputable agencies though Desert Adventure (phone: 851067) offered excellent service. It is also possible to rent bikes in San Pedro as a worthwhile option to the Valle de la Luna tour. It is an easy 16 km ride from San Pedro into the Valle.

The Accommodations are basic but charming. The Residencial Juanita (tel 851039) is situated on the plaza. The rooms are clean and surround an inner courtyard where one can enjoy a delicious home cooked lunch. It is perhaps one of the best residenciales that I have experienced in Chile. There are other options including the interesting Hostal/Camping Puri.

Getting to San Pedro can be difficult, depending on your budget or schedule. The long bus ride (22 hours) from Santiago to Calama can be nicely split up with nights in La Serena or Copiapo. If time is short, there is air service from Santiago to Calama several times a week. There are three bus companies (Tramaca, Morales Moralitas, and Yusman) that leave regularly to San Pedro from Calama. Even though it is not extremely convenient to get to, the sunny days and clear air make it an excellent option for a winter vacation.

Chilean Desert Trip: San Pedro de Atacama

While most travelers take in San Pedro en route to somewhere else, it’s an attractive destination in and of itself. I recently spent an entire week there, but would've liked to squeeze in at least three more days.

Literally in the middle of nowhere, this oasis now hosts visitors from around the world - families native to the area and a new generation of settlers: those catching the wave of a new business opportunity. To handle the great influx of curious travelers, new tour companies, hostels and restaurants are sprouting up in this not-so-long-ago secluded region.

Some of the visitors-turned-locals claim that this oasis emits magnetic waves (like negative ions) that make them feel better. Whether it’s an energy force in the air; copper and gold, archeology and exploration; or the stunning natural environment; most folks agree that San Pedro arouses a special feeling in them. Where else can you observe mother nature spew boiling water and sulfuric vapor 15 feet into the air, or watch salmon-colored flamingos dot the sky against an endless background of coffee-shaded salt fields?

As you experience this stark environment, the desert’s vastness gives you space to ponder. Enjoy the deep silence or the sound of wind beating against walls of sand. All of the sights and sounds afford a peace seldom felt in the bustle of city life. Take the slow pace of this old, old town, but remember that you are a guest here. The fragile ecosystem of San Pedro depends on frugal use of water and other resources.

The most direct route to San Pedro requires three segments: the Santiago Airport to Calama ($93,000 pesos round trip), a taxi to the bus station in Calama ($2,000 pesos) and a bus ride to San Pedro ($2,000 pesos). The buses leave twice a day at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m., so plan the air trip accordingly.

As you step off the bus, you enter a pueblo of modest adobe dwellings rich in earth tones. Take a glimpse into a culture that uses scarce resources with dignity. Mud-mixed-with-straw fences blend so well into the natural setting that they don’t interrupt the inherent beauty of the place. The entire town provides a sharp contrast to Santiago, where grandiose houses and dilapidated shacks disrupt nature.

Accommodations come in the form of hostel-type rooms with shared bathrooms ($3,000 pesos per night). Camping is also available.

While many of the adventurers I encountered seemed to be surviving well in the various hostels they were staying in, I promptly changed my Accommodations after one bad night. The plumbing broke down causing a problem for the 20 people who shared two toilets. The hot showers they advertised went out with the plumbing. This, coupled with the owners' dogs who protected the place all night with outbursts of yelping and barking, made my change to the Hosteria de San Pedro timely. My room was quiet, cool, and comfortable with a private bathroom ($19,000-$45,000 pesos per night). Other bonuses include a swimming pool and nice restaurant . With so much tourism going on, I recommend making reservations in advance.

After getting yourself squared away with lodging, you can choose from a vast range of tours. The various companies offer the same excursions for the same price, so it is easy to book a reservation on foot and on short notice.

Make sure you visit the Valle de la Luna just before sunset and the geysers at Tatio as the sun rises. You can ride to Inca ruins on bicycle or travel to Toconao, an old Indian village, on horseback. Foot tours in town offer a nice break from scheduled trips. Walk to the Archaeological Museum and view ancient mummies, or attend Catholic mass on Sunday morning at the San Pedro Colonial Church. The costs vary, but most outings range from gratis to $6,000 pesos.

San Pedro de Atacama

When I first stepped off the bus in San Pedro de Atacama, the authenticity of this enchanting desert town was immediately evident.

Given its location in Chile's far north, the settlement of some 1,000 is perhaps an unlikely stop on the tourist trail, as to the west the first view is only of dunes and vast rock fields in one of the driest deserts in the world, the Atacama.

But when I looked to the sky and then East, I was awestruck by a volcano 6,000 meters (almost 20,000 feet) high, towering over a rustic adobe church tower, and it immediately became obvious why San Pedro has become the destination it is.

According to the National Tourism Service (Sernatur), San Pedro de Atacama's Region III is the third most popular tourist destination in Chile, even topping Santiago. Dirt streets divide adobe buildings in the small town, but all along there are tour agencies, restaurants, shops and hotels - ample evidence of the area's popularity. The high seasons are December to February and July to August.

The wondrous outdoors surrounding San Pedro is what draws people from far and wide - the Valley of the Moon, the Tatio Geysers and Lake Chaxa are among the most popular, and tours (US$8 to 20 per person) - which you must take unless you have a car- take just one to two days. And a little further north, across the border into Bolivia, the huge Uyuni salt flat is another top attraction.

Beginning in the late afternoon, the nearby Valley of the Moon tour passes through numerous geological wonders that will make you feel like you're on another planet. After stops at a cylindrical depression, 200 meters deep, and Mars Valley, the tour finally arrives at Valley of the Moon. The landscape bears such a striking resemblance to the moon that NASA conducted studies there in the 1970s. Before heading back at around 9 p.m., an excursion through caverns completes the surreal experience.

The Tatio Geyser tour leaves at 4 a.m. When the sun finally rises, the sight of steam spewing from the high desert Altiplano is well worth the sacrifice, not to mention the Andes mountains, illuminated from behind, and, hopefully, a herd of galloping vicuñas.

At over 4,000 meters, the landscape is unique, the air is very cold, and the visitor is awarded with a dip in hot springs in a verdant canyon at tour's end.

Lake Chaxa and its magical flamingos are yet another must- see. Also nearby are Inca ruins accessible on foot or bike. A grocery store on Caracoles Street rents bikes and has maps, as do some tour agencies, and the ruins can be reached within an hour. Past the ruins, the road leads to a dry riverbed that canyons through a sandstone ridge, making for a full day of adventure on your mountain bike.

Our band of travelers found sanctuary from the toils of adventure tourism at Casa Piedra, a restaurant also located on Caracoles Street. A three-course meal with wine is just US$5 - the vegetarian crepes were great. The service and smile of our waitress, Rosanna, kept us loyal, as did the 2-for-1 pisco sour promotion, 7 to 9 p.m. The outdoor patio complete with fire makes for an excellent atmosphere to get to know other travelers from around the world, who come to enjoy an area that remains authentic despite its recent boom.

For lodging in San Pedro, Casa Corvatch is recommended (Calle Antofagasta, 851 101) and the cozy Residencial La Florida is a basic budget choice at US$7 (Calle Tocopilla, 851021). For more upscale accommodations including a pool and 24-hour electricity, the best choice is La Casa de Don Tomas (rooms start at US$50, 851055, www.rdc.cl/dontomas). One notable tour company is Atacama Desert Expeditions (851140, www.adex.cl). The tourist office in the bus station on Calle Licanbur (55-851084) has lots of information on tours and sites.