Thursday, December 6, 2007

Aconcagua, Chile Mountain Climbing

Although the summit is located in Argentina many mountaineers set off from Santiago, therefore justifying its inclusion in this site. This majestic mountain has won the highest mountain competition between many South American countries; Chile, Bolivia and Argentina have all claimed to have the highest mountain, and maps in these countries actually back up their claims. Aconcagua, at 6980 meters (22,800ft), sits just north of the international highway between Santiago and Mendoza, Argentina, and its snowy peak is visible from the road.

The highest mountain in the western hemisphere, Aconcagua has a relatively easy "Normal Route" that has been climbed by many novice climbers. It also has many extremely technical routes up its daunting south face that challenges the most experienced mountaineers in the world. Many international trekking companies offer packaged tours with guides, though the mountain is easily attempted by climbers with experience and a little research. Ascents are normally done in 15-25 days, with many rest days for acclimatization. Although it is possible to climb quicker if one is in excellent shape; I climbed it in 11 days via the Polish Glacier Route after preparing on several high Chilean peaks. It is truly an expedition climb, with a long access (2 days hiking for the Normal Route and 3 days and 55 kms for the Polish Glacier Route simply to arrive at base camp). One can expect to see Andean condors riding the air currents overhead and wild guanacos (a relative of the llama) grazing on the steep slopes all valleys on the approach.

Although Aconcagua has a reputation as an easy mountain, it is still an extremely tall mountain (only Asia has higher peaks) and poses all of the dangers of high altitude mountaineering: altitude sickness, dangerous weather, extreme cold (it was -20 degrees C inside our tent at high camp!), distant medical services and very limited rescue options. Do not take any mountain over 5000 meters (16,500ft) lightly, especially not one that nearly reaches 7000 meters (23,000ft)!!!

Do not attempt this mountain if you are not in good physical condition- doctors at thr Plaza de Mulas base camp (Normal Route) have begun questioning perspective climbers and refusing permission to climb for those unprepared.

Climbing permits are required and can be obtained in Mendoza, Argentina, see prices here. Mules can be hired to carry equipment to base camp (highly recommended) on the Normal Route and, for a higher price, going to the the Polish Glacier. It may be possible to get better prices if you talk directly to the mule drivers and not go through their bosses who take a large cut of the money. However, this runs the risk of losing some equipment to untrustworthy multeers.

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