Hacienda los Lingues
Hacienda Los Lingues is for connoisseurs — of resorts, food, history, horses and antiques. Just about everything in this charming getaway has a pedigree, from the gracious hosts to the and itself, but you won’t find a bit of pretension here.
When our bus full of Americans pulled into the shaded courtyard, owners Maria Elena Lyon de Claro and German Claro strode down the 18th century verandah to greet us.
The handsome couple entertained us on a wisteria-draped patio with pisco sours, crispy cheese empanadas and anecdotes about life in the country, as we unwound from the two-hour bus ride.
Then Maria Elena led us on a detailed tour of the home that was built on land granted to her husband’s ancestors by the king of Span in 1588. History seeps from every corner. Guests might sleep in the room where Jose Gregorio de Argomedo, a member of Chile’s first government, was born; take afternoon tea in the living room of family portraits that just as easily could hang in a museum; and dine off Limoges china, surrounded by the coats of arms of a line of Chilean aristocracy.
The furnishings tell a story of Chilean settlement: Diaguita pottery, colonial benches, doors carved by early Jesuits, pre-revolutionary French Baccarat chandeliers, German china, 17th century Chilean silver, Brazilian sofas. In perfect English, Maria Elena regaled us with tales of stolen portraits, presidential gift exchanges and the trials of living in a 300-year-old adobe house. (She had to have crooked doors custom made to fit the doorways.)
A chapel converted from a dairy barn in the late 1700s houses a beautiful ivory crucifix and a primitive Peruvian painting of the Virgin Mary. The thick adobe walls and simple wood pews provide a peaceful place for prayer. The resort also hosts weddings, Maria Elena told us.
The house is set in lush gardens shaded by pine and eucalyptus trees. Lunch is either served al fresco in the gardens or in the wine cellar. Because it was a cool day, we dined indoors, cozy inside stone walls covered by drying flowers, garlic and onions. The meal was typically Chilean, with an international flair. We began with an avocado mousse, followed by steaming humitas.
The entree was a flavorful filet accompanied by crisp-tender carrots. For dessert, we enjoyed a selection of ice creams and fruit. The wine flowed freely, and we all made some new friends.
After lunch, we were treated to an exhibition of the Aculeo horses the Claro family raises. In keeping with the historical theme, the horses are pure descendants of the conquistadors’ mounts — a stocky, even-tempered breed.
A huaso dressed in the traditional poncho and scary-looking spurs put a young thoroughbred through its paces, to the delight of the visitors. Maria Elena’s daughter assured us the spurs are never used to poke the horses, but that it’s the jingly sound that motivates them.
Guests can ride the horses over the 10,000-acre estate, exploring farmland and Andean foothills. Overnight guests are encouraged to make themselves at home in the Claro home.
No doors are locked and no one has to sign any bills, until checkout time. It’s the honor system here, and "if you don’t believe in our bill, you don’t pay," says Maria \par Elena. Los Lingues is just one of five Relais & Chateaux members in South America. The hacienda can be reached in Santiago by calling 235-5446, 235-2458 or 235-7604.
When our bus full of Americans pulled into the shaded courtyard, owners Maria Elena Lyon de Claro and German Claro strode down the 18th century verandah to greet us.
The handsome couple entertained us on a wisteria-draped patio with pisco sours, crispy cheese empanadas and anecdotes about life in the country, as we unwound from the two-hour bus ride.
Then Maria Elena led us on a detailed tour of the home that was built on land granted to her husband’s ancestors by the king of Span in 1588. History seeps from every corner. Guests might sleep in the room where Jose Gregorio de Argomedo, a member of Chile’s first government, was born; take afternoon tea in the living room of family portraits that just as easily could hang in a museum; and dine off Limoges china, surrounded by the coats of arms of a line of Chilean aristocracy.
The furnishings tell a story of Chilean settlement: Diaguita pottery, colonial benches, doors carved by early Jesuits, pre-revolutionary French Baccarat chandeliers, German china, 17th century Chilean silver, Brazilian sofas. In perfect English, Maria Elena regaled us with tales of stolen portraits, presidential gift exchanges and the trials of living in a 300-year-old adobe house. (She had to have crooked doors custom made to fit the doorways.)
A chapel converted from a dairy barn in the late 1700s houses a beautiful ivory crucifix and a primitive Peruvian painting of the Virgin Mary. The thick adobe walls and simple wood pews provide a peaceful place for prayer. The resort also hosts weddings, Maria Elena told us.
The house is set in lush gardens shaded by pine and eucalyptus trees. Lunch is either served al fresco in the gardens or in the wine cellar. Because it was a cool day, we dined indoors, cozy inside stone walls covered by drying flowers, garlic and onions. The meal was typically Chilean, with an international flair. We began with an avocado mousse, followed by steaming humitas.
The entree was a flavorful filet accompanied by crisp-tender carrots. For dessert, we enjoyed a selection of ice creams and fruit. The wine flowed freely, and we all made some new friends.
After lunch, we were treated to an exhibition of the Aculeo horses the Claro family raises. In keeping with the historical theme, the horses are pure descendants of the conquistadors’ mounts — a stocky, even-tempered breed.
A huaso dressed in the traditional poncho and scary-looking spurs put a young thoroughbred through its paces, to the delight of the visitors. Maria Elena’s daughter assured us the spurs are never used to poke the horses, but that it’s the jingly sound that motivates them.
Guests can ride the horses over the 10,000-acre estate, exploring farmland and Andean foothills. Overnight guests are encouraged to make themselves at home in the Claro home.
No doors are locked and no one has to sign any bills, until checkout time. It’s the honor system here, and "if you don’t believe in our bill, you don’t pay," says Maria \par Elena. Los Lingues is just one of five Relais & Chateaux members in South America. The hacienda can be reached in Santiago by calling 235-5446, 235-2458 or 235-7604.
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