Santuario de la Naturaleza
The sometimes oppressive summer heat of Santiago has snapped with a nearly audible sound revealing mothballed sweaters and gray overcoats. There is a briskness pushing the business people through the centro with the same energy that had been renewed by the strong summer sun. The days are shrinking and the afternoon winds are slowing allowing the city's formidable smog to begin to settle in offering us glimpses of the months to come. These changes, to some, can be oppressive. In the centro, in fact, they are oppressive, but they are also ideal opportunities for a day, or a weekend, in the foothills of the cordillera. Two local places, in particular, offer themselves as excellent destinations.
The first of these is the Santuario de la Naturaleza, located in the near suburb of El Arrayan. The park centers itself around the steep valley of El Arrayan creek. After passing through the entrance gate, the road continues for nearly a kilometer to a parking/picnic area that are on either side of the creek. There is a wide variety of picnic sites -- both good and bad -- with tables and barbecue pits. The choice spots, away from the crowds along the creek, are sought after on weekends and make for an excellent picnic. The road veers to the left from the parking lot, ends and marks the beginning of a trail system that winds for 40 kilometers through the Andean foothills. A walk of 30 minutes can bring you to a high ridge with a pristine view of both the river valley and the Andean peaks. The Santuario can be reached by car through Las Condes to El Arrayan, where there are a number of street signs leading you to the Santuario. Local city buses can take you to the center of El Arrayan where you can catch a taxi or colectivo to the Santuario. Hitchhiking from El Arrayan to the Santuario is an alternative option for adventure seekers who prefer jumping in the back of a pick-up.
The second area, perfect for an overnight, is located high up the Cajon del Maipo. The Parque Nacional El Morado begins in the oasis-like village of Lo Valdes, 49 kilometers past San Jose de Maipo. The trail into the park crosses a small river, the source of which is the San Francisco Glacier at the end of the valley. It climbs for approximately 350 meters into the heart of a nearly perfect example of a glacial valley. The trail, in total, is eight kilometers from the town of Lo Valdes to the foot of the glacier. After the first steep rise from the town, the trail comes to several mineral springs that are on both sides of the river. The meadows here offer themselves as a nice place to camp but the real treasure lies a few kilometers further up the valley towards the awesome peak of Morador. The trail climbs a moraine and arrives at a small laguna that is surrounded on two sides by an alpine meadow. This area offers the best camping and the wind shelters indicate its frequent use. The views of the surrounding peaks are remarkable and the night, from full moon to new moon, are dazzling.
From here, the trail continues to the foot of the glacier which also is the beginning of an interesting climb on the Mirador del Morado. Any time of year the nights are cold and a good sleeping bag shelters you from the chilling winds and keeps you cozy and warm to relish the beautiful starry nights.
There is also the option of returning to Lo Valdes to spend the night in the village. There are several inexpensive pensiones, among them Chicos Malos (2885380 or 6234438) come recommended. As an interesting note, the residents of the town opted against electricity when the lines were being installed. They enjoyed the feel of the night unencumbered by electric lights and as a result, the only electricity in the area serves the mine that is on the far side of the river from the town. If the weather permits, it may be tempting to spend some time in the therapeutic mineral waters of Banos Morales. The pool is on the lower edge of town and is fed by the same spring system that is found in the park.
The area is easily reached by car or one can take the buses Cajon del Maipo which leave the Metro Parque O'Higgins at 7:15 every weekend morning and return evenings at 8:00.
Either the Santuario de la Naturaleza or the Parque Morado can be convenient getaways from the gray of the city. Both are within easy reach and are located in areas with enough sun and fresh air to completely recharge for the gruel of the week.
The first of these is the Santuario de la Naturaleza, located in the near suburb of El Arrayan. The park centers itself around the steep valley of El Arrayan creek. After passing through the entrance gate, the road continues for nearly a kilometer to a parking/picnic area that are on either side of the creek. There is a wide variety of picnic sites -- both good and bad -- with tables and barbecue pits. The choice spots, away from the crowds along the creek, are sought after on weekends and make for an excellent picnic. The road veers to the left from the parking lot, ends and marks the beginning of a trail system that winds for 40 kilometers through the Andean foothills. A walk of 30 minutes can bring you to a high ridge with a pristine view of both the river valley and the Andean peaks. The Santuario can be reached by car through Las Condes to El Arrayan, where there are a number of street signs leading you to the Santuario. Local city buses can take you to the center of El Arrayan where you can catch a taxi or colectivo to the Santuario. Hitchhiking from El Arrayan to the Santuario is an alternative option for adventure seekers who prefer jumping in the back of a pick-up.
The second area, perfect for an overnight, is located high up the Cajon del Maipo. The Parque Nacional El Morado begins in the oasis-like village of Lo Valdes, 49 kilometers past San Jose de Maipo. The trail into the park crosses a small river, the source of which is the San Francisco Glacier at the end of the valley. It climbs for approximately 350 meters into the heart of a nearly perfect example of a glacial valley. The trail, in total, is eight kilometers from the town of Lo Valdes to the foot of the glacier. After the first steep rise from the town, the trail comes to several mineral springs that are on both sides of the river. The meadows here offer themselves as a nice place to camp but the real treasure lies a few kilometers further up the valley towards the awesome peak of Morador. The trail climbs a moraine and arrives at a small laguna that is surrounded on two sides by an alpine meadow. This area offers the best camping and the wind shelters indicate its frequent use. The views of the surrounding peaks are remarkable and the night, from full moon to new moon, are dazzling.
From here, the trail continues to the foot of the glacier which also is the beginning of an interesting climb on the Mirador del Morado. Any time of year the nights are cold and a good sleeping bag shelters you from the chilling winds and keeps you cozy and warm to relish the beautiful starry nights.
There is also the option of returning to Lo Valdes to spend the night in the village. There are several inexpensive pensiones, among them Chicos Malos (2885380 or 6234438) come recommended. As an interesting note, the residents of the town opted against electricity when the lines were being installed. They enjoyed the feel of the night unencumbered by electric lights and as a result, the only electricity in the area serves the mine that is on the far side of the river from the town. If the weather permits, it may be tempting to spend some time in the therapeutic mineral waters of Banos Morales. The pool is on the lower edge of town and is fed by the same spring system that is found in the park.
The area is easily reached by car or one can take the buses Cajon del Maipo which leave the Metro Parque O'Higgins at 7:15 every weekend morning and return evenings at 8:00.
Either the Santuario de la Naturaleza or the Parque Morado can be convenient getaways from the gray of the city. Both are within easy reach and are located in areas with enough sun and fresh air to completely recharge for the gruel of the week.
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