Trip to San Pedro de Atacama
San Pedro de Atacama is worth a visit. If it were located in a less interesting geographical area, perhaps somewhere near Curacavi on the road to Viña, the charming colonial remnant alone would merit a half a day drive to see its architecture and impressive museum. As it is, situated in the middle of a unique area in one of the most unusual geographic regions on the planet, it makes a good focal point for a journey through Chile’s north.
San Pedro is a historic functioning city that is the heart of a group of farming communities known as Ayollas. These were originally formed, in Atacameña times, as family farming groups that were spread along the San Pedro River. Most of the people of the area still farm. They grow enough grains to support themselves, along with a small amount of vegetables that are sold in the Calama markets.
The communities remained intact through the Inca conquest in the late 15th century and later the Spanish. In the 19th century, the town became commercially significant as a part of the trade route between Chile and the Argentinean coast until Calama (and its mines) usurped it at the beginning of this century. The area, though, has not suffered significant change as the town does much to reinforce its historic ties.
The roads are all narrow and lined with high adobe walls that surround small plots of farmland. The plaza is paved with stone and faces a small, stark white church that dates from 1745. The facing buildings are fronted with archways and even the potentially imposing Entel phone office fits nicely into the scheme of San Pedro. The history of the area is well detailed in the excellent archaeological museum. The features include several well preserved Atacamanian mummies with hair and clothing intact.
What draws most visitors to the area, however, is the geography. San Pedro is an oasis in the middle of the driest desert on earth. The extent of the dryness becomes clear on the approach to the pueblo as the rock and dirt support absolutely no life. Barren is simply too colorful to describe what you will find there. In geographically ancient times, the whole area was submerged in the ocean. With the formation of the Andes, it slowly began to rise out. A western branch of the Andes, known as the Cordillera de Domeyko, also rose and trapped a large body of ocean between the two ranges. The water evaporated (the salt did not) leaving behind the Salar de Atacama. The Salar is a huge salt plane that is continually increasing as ground water from the high cordillera filters through the soil, dissolves salt, and deposits it on the surface as it evaporates in the high desert air.
Surprisingly, in the middle of this inhospitable environment, there is the Laguna Chaxa. It is a long shallow system of ponds that is the heart of a flamingo breeding ground. The sight of a flock of flamingoes crossing in front of a bone dry volcanic range colored by the setting sun is, to say the least, impressive.
The consistent geologic activity of the area has folded up the western edge of the Salar forming the aptly named Cordillera de Sal. The western edge rises gently only to fall abruptly into a dismaying maze of erosion. Within this geographic kaleidoscope lies the Valle de la Luna. It is an exotic mix of caves, dunes, and raw mountains of all mineral colors. Nearly every night there is a small pilgrimage to the tops of the modest peaks to watch the sun set.
There are other attractions as well including geysers, high alpine lakes, and the remains of a 12th century fortress. Visiting these areas is remarkably easy as a system of tours has been developed that supply transportation in comfortable mini-vans, an informative guide, and meals (depending on the tour) for a reasonable price. There are several reputable agencies though Desert Adventure (phone: 851067) offered excellent service. It is also possible to rent bikes in San Pedro as a worthwhile option to the Valle de la Luna tour. It is an easy 16 km ride from San Pedro into the Valle.
The Accommodations are basic but charming. The Residencial Juanita (tel 851039) is situated on the plaza. The rooms are clean and surround an inner courtyard where one can enjoy a delicious home cooked lunch. It is perhaps one of the best residenciales that I have experienced in Chile. There are other options including the interesting Hostal/Camping Puri.
Getting to San Pedro can be difficult, depending on your budget or schedule. The long bus ride (22 hours) from Santiago to Calama can be nicely split up with nights in La Serena or Copiapo. If time is short, there is air service from Santiago to Calama several times a week. There are three bus companies (Tramaca, Morales Moralitas, and Yusman) that leave regularly to San Pedro from Calama. Even though it is not extremely convenient to get to, the sunny days and clear air make it an excellent option for a winter vacation.
San Pedro is a historic functioning city that is the heart of a group of farming communities known as Ayollas. These were originally formed, in Atacameña times, as family farming groups that were spread along the San Pedro River. Most of the people of the area still farm. They grow enough grains to support themselves, along with a small amount of vegetables that are sold in the Calama markets.
The communities remained intact through the Inca conquest in the late 15th century and later the Spanish. In the 19th century, the town became commercially significant as a part of the trade route between Chile and the Argentinean coast until Calama (and its mines) usurped it at the beginning of this century. The area, though, has not suffered significant change as the town does much to reinforce its historic ties.
The roads are all narrow and lined with high adobe walls that surround small plots of farmland. The plaza is paved with stone and faces a small, stark white church that dates from 1745. The facing buildings are fronted with archways and even the potentially imposing Entel phone office fits nicely into the scheme of San Pedro. The history of the area is well detailed in the excellent archaeological museum. The features include several well preserved Atacamanian mummies with hair and clothing intact.
What draws most visitors to the area, however, is the geography. San Pedro is an oasis in the middle of the driest desert on earth. The extent of the dryness becomes clear on the approach to the pueblo as the rock and dirt support absolutely no life. Barren is simply too colorful to describe what you will find there. In geographically ancient times, the whole area was submerged in the ocean. With the formation of the Andes, it slowly began to rise out. A western branch of the Andes, known as the Cordillera de Domeyko, also rose and trapped a large body of ocean between the two ranges. The water evaporated (the salt did not) leaving behind the Salar de Atacama. The Salar is a huge salt plane that is continually increasing as ground water from the high cordillera filters through the soil, dissolves salt, and deposits it on the surface as it evaporates in the high desert air.
Surprisingly, in the middle of this inhospitable environment, there is the Laguna Chaxa. It is a long shallow system of ponds that is the heart of a flamingo breeding ground. The sight of a flock of flamingoes crossing in front of a bone dry volcanic range colored by the setting sun is, to say the least, impressive.
The consistent geologic activity of the area has folded up the western edge of the Salar forming the aptly named Cordillera de Sal. The western edge rises gently only to fall abruptly into a dismaying maze of erosion. Within this geographic kaleidoscope lies the Valle de la Luna. It is an exotic mix of caves, dunes, and raw mountains of all mineral colors. Nearly every night there is a small pilgrimage to the tops of the modest peaks to watch the sun set.
There are other attractions as well including geysers, high alpine lakes, and the remains of a 12th century fortress. Visiting these areas is remarkably easy as a system of tours has been developed that supply transportation in comfortable mini-vans, an informative guide, and meals (depending on the tour) for a reasonable price. There are several reputable agencies though Desert Adventure (phone: 851067) offered excellent service. It is also possible to rent bikes in San Pedro as a worthwhile option to the Valle de la Luna tour. It is an easy 16 km ride from San Pedro into the Valle.
The Accommodations are basic but charming. The Residencial Juanita (tel 851039) is situated on the plaza. The rooms are clean and surround an inner courtyard where one can enjoy a delicious home cooked lunch. It is perhaps one of the best residenciales that I have experienced in Chile. There are other options including the interesting Hostal/Camping Puri.
Getting to San Pedro can be difficult, depending on your budget or schedule. The long bus ride (22 hours) from Santiago to Calama can be nicely split up with nights in La Serena or Copiapo. If time is short, there is air service from Santiago to Calama several times a week. There are three bus companies (Tramaca, Morales Moralitas, and Yusman) that leave regularly to San Pedro from Calama. Even though it is not extremely convenient to get to, the sunny days and clear air make it an excellent option for a winter vacation.
Labels: atacama, san-pedro-de-atacama
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