Chilean Desert Trip: San Pedro de Atacama
While most travelers take in San Pedro en route to somewhere else, it’s an attractive destination in and of itself. I recently spent an entire week there, but would've liked to squeeze in at least three more days.
Literally in the middle of nowhere, this oasis now hosts visitors from around the world - families native to the area and a new generation of settlers: those catching the wave of a new business opportunity. To handle the great influx of curious travelers, new tour companies, hostels and restaurants are sprouting up in this not-so-long-ago secluded region.
Some of the visitors-turned-locals claim that this oasis emits magnetic waves (like negative ions) that make them feel better. Whether it’s an energy force in the air; copper and gold, archeology and exploration; or the stunning natural environment; most folks agree that San Pedro arouses a special feeling in them. Where else can you observe mother nature spew boiling water and sulfuric vapor 15 feet into the air, or watch salmon-colored flamingos dot the sky against an endless background of coffee-shaded salt fields?
As you experience this stark environment, the desert’s vastness gives you space to ponder. Enjoy the deep silence or the sound of wind beating against walls of sand. All of the sights and sounds afford a peace seldom felt in the bustle of city life. Take the slow pace of this old, old town, but remember that you are a guest here. The fragile ecosystem of San Pedro depends on frugal use of water and other resources.
The most direct route to San Pedro requires three segments: the Santiago Airport to Calama ($93,000 pesos round trip), a taxi to the bus station in Calama ($2,000 pesos) and a bus ride to San Pedro ($2,000 pesos). The buses leave twice a day at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m., so plan the air trip accordingly.
As you step off the bus, you enter a pueblo of modest adobe dwellings rich in earth tones. Take a glimpse into a culture that uses scarce resources with dignity. Mud-mixed-with-straw fences blend so well into the natural setting that they don’t interrupt the inherent beauty of the place. The entire town provides a sharp contrast to Santiago, where grandiose houses and dilapidated shacks disrupt nature.
Accommodations come in the form of hostel-type rooms with shared bathrooms ($3,000 pesos per night). Camping is also available.
While many of the adventurers I encountered seemed to be surviving well in the various hostels they were staying in, I promptly changed my Accommodations after one bad night. The plumbing broke down causing a problem for the 20 people who shared two toilets. The hot showers they advertised went out with the plumbing. This, coupled with the owners' dogs who protected the place all night with outbursts of yelping and barking, made my change to the Hosteria de San Pedro timely. My room was quiet, cool, and comfortable with a private bathroom ($19,000-$45,000 pesos per night). Other bonuses include a swimming pool and nice restaurant . With so much tourism going on, I recommend making reservations in advance.
After getting yourself squared away with lodging, you can choose from a vast range of tours. The various companies offer the same excursions for the same price, so it is easy to book a reservation on foot and on short notice.
Make sure you visit the Valle de la Luna just before sunset and the geysers at Tatio as the sun rises. You can ride to Inca ruins on bicycle or travel to Toconao, an old Indian village, on horseback. Foot tours in town offer a nice break from scheduled trips. Walk to the Archaeological Museum and view ancient mummies, or attend Catholic mass on Sunday morning at the San Pedro Colonial Church. The costs vary, but most outings range from gratis to $6,000 pesos.
Literally in the middle of nowhere, this oasis now hosts visitors from around the world - families native to the area and a new generation of settlers: those catching the wave of a new business opportunity. To handle the great influx of curious travelers, new tour companies, hostels and restaurants are sprouting up in this not-so-long-ago secluded region.
Some of the visitors-turned-locals claim that this oasis emits magnetic waves (like negative ions) that make them feel better. Whether it’s an energy force in the air; copper and gold, archeology and exploration; or the stunning natural environment; most folks agree that San Pedro arouses a special feeling in them. Where else can you observe mother nature spew boiling water and sulfuric vapor 15 feet into the air, or watch salmon-colored flamingos dot the sky against an endless background of coffee-shaded salt fields?
As you experience this stark environment, the desert’s vastness gives you space to ponder. Enjoy the deep silence or the sound of wind beating against walls of sand. All of the sights and sounds afford a peace seldom felt in the bustle of city life. Take the slow pace of this old, old town, but remember that you are a guest here. The fragile ecosystem of San Pedro depends on frugal use of water and other resources.
The most direct route to San Pedro requires three segments: the Santiago Airport to Calama ($93,000 pesos round trip), a taxi to the bus station in Calama ($2,000 pesos) and a bus ride to San Pedro ($2,000 pesos). The buses leave twice a day at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m., so plan the air trip accordingly.
As you step off the bus, you enter a pueblo of modest adobe dwellings rich in earth tones. Take a glimpse into a culture that uses scarce resources with dignity. Mud-mixed-with-straw fences blend so well into the natural setting that they don’t interrupt the inherent beauty of the place. The entire town provides a sharp contrast to Santiago, where grandiose houses and dilapidated shacks disrupt nature.
Accommodations come in the form of hostel-type rooms with shared bathrooms ($3,000 pesos per night). Camping is also available.
While many of the adventurers I encountered seemed to be surviving well in the various hostels they were staying in, I promptly changed my Accommodations after one bad night. The plumbing broke down causing a problem for the 20 people who shared two toilets. The hot showers they advertised went out with the plumbing. This, coupled with the owners' dogs who protected the place all night with outbursts of yelping and barking, made my change to the Hosteria de San Pedro timely. My room was quiet, cool, and comfortable with a private bathroom ($19,000-$45,000 pesos per night). Other bonuses include a swimming pool and nice restaurant . With so much tourism going on, I recommend making reservations in advance.
After getting yourself squared away with lodging, you can choose from a vast range of tours. The various companies offer the same excursions for the same price, so it is easy to book a reservation on foot and on short notice.
Make sure you visit the Valle de la Luna just before sunset and the geysers at Tatio as the sun rises. You can ride to Inca ruins on bicycle or travel to Toconao, an old Indian village, on horseback. Foot tours in town offer a nice break from scheduled trips. Walk to the Archaeological Museum and view ancient mummies, or attend Catholic mass on Sunday morning at the San Pedro Colonial Church. The costs vary, but most outings range from gratis to $6,000 pesos.
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